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Control Box dead - BOTH of them

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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GE 30" all-electric 240v oven, no prior issues. Part in question: Control Box - ERC3B, aka WBT27T10411 I can't say

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Old 03-28-2011, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Default Control Box dead - BOTH of them
Model Number: JTP20   Brand: GE   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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GE 30" all-electric 240v oven, no prior issues.
Part in question: Control Box - ERC3B, aka WBT27T10411

I can't say exactly when the oven stopped working. We were away on vacation for 2 weeks, and the house sitter claims she never so much as glanced at the oven. It's plausible, she's vegan.

The condition of the oven is/was nothing worked - no display, no beeps, no oven light. I reset the circuit breaker even though it hadn't tripped. No change. So, I initially blamed it on the squirrel that had taken up residence in the space between our first and second floor - from where the electric wires begin to distribute themselves around the house. It took several weeks, but the squirrel is gone, and I owe it an apology because it hadn't pee'd on or chewed through the wires as I had expected.

I tested the line at the circuit breaker, and the breaker itself. They're fine. I also tested the wires at the junction box in the kitchen; good.

Testing between the red wire on L2 and the black wire on L1 gives me a reading of 240v, as it should. L1 to N, however, doesn't give me the expected 120v, but 1.4v. L1 to J4 7 also reads at 1.4v. So I ordered a replacement Control Box.

The replacement arrived in short order, and except for the color of the Key Panel ribbon connector, it is an exact match for the original part. I photographed the original prior to removing any wires, and swapped the Control Box out. It took all of about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, the net change was: 0. No display, no beeps, no oven light.

I have since isolated and checked every component and every wire - even the oven light bulb. I have continuity everywhere, and tested the key panel as well.

So, unless there's a circuit breaker or a relay on the inside of the Control Box, or some other explanation, I suspect I got a bad replacement part.

Any ideas?
Mike


Update, 31-Mar-11:
Got an email from anonymous technician suggesting I test the thermal switches.
Whereas I appreciated getting a response, I apparently wasn't clear enough when, in paragraph 6, I stated, "I have since isolated and checked every component ... I have continuity everywhere...". (deep sigh)

I just spoke to someone from APP, and a new ERC3B is going to be shipped out.


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Last edited by MikeJL : 03-30-2011 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Update
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