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Double oven upper displays "door"

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Upper oven will not cook. When "cook time" or "broil" or "oven temp" buttons are pushed "door" shows up in

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Old 03-20-2011, 01:11 PM
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Default Double oven upper displays "door"
Model Number: CWE5800ACB   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Upper oven will not cook. When "cook time" or "broil" or "oven temp" buttons are pushed "door" shows up in the display and the oven will not turn on. I have reset the breaker(left off overnight), didled with the door latch mechanism, and messed with a micro switch that seems to work with the door latch, but still will not cook. The self clean cycle will work. The clock works. The bottom oven works. I took the control panel out and did not see any loose circuits. I took the door off and reinstalled with no change. Any ideas on what could be wrong?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2011, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgsocal View Post
Upper oven will not cook. When "cook time" or "broil" or "oven temp" buttons are pushed "door" shows up in the display and the oven will not turn on. I have reset the breaker(left off overnight), didled with the door latch mechanism, and messed with a micro switch that seems to work with the door latch, but still will not cook. The self clean cycle will work. The clock works. The bottom oven works. I took the control panel out and did not see any loose circuits. I took the door off and reinstalled with no change. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

CTG,

There are several possibilities,

At present the control board "thinks" the door is closed and locked for a self clean cycle, due to a bad switch or wire, most likely.

First thing, did you notice if the s/c latch handle and or the screws are bent ?
(if there's a problem in the alignment, the switch could be partially engaged).

Did you check the wiring from the micro switch to the control board, and the switch contacts for open and closed circuits ?
(you could test the switch, by pressing in on the switch plunger with a small screwdriver and listen for a "click").

You will most likely need the latch assembly, especially if there's a bent part.


Part number: AP4095555

Part number: AP4095555


Good Luck,
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:17 PM
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Thanks for the info Joe. It could be the wiring. I'll check out the micro switch again and see if it is stuck.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgsocal View Post
Thanks for the info Joe. It could be the wiring. I'll check out the micro switch again and see if it is stuck.
CT,

Great,

We'll keep an eye out for your next post,

I'm sure you'll be up and working soon.

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Old 04-03-2011, 11:11 PM
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I did not find any wiring problems. I bought a new latch assembly and put it in but I still have the same problem. What should be my next step to get the upper oven to work?
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgsocal View Post
I did not find any wiring problems. I bought a new latch assembly and put it in but I still have the same problem. What should be my next step to get the upper oven to work?

CTG,

It sounds like you've coverred, the more common failures.

We'll need to check the control panel switches and control circuits.

Can you get a multi meter so we can check circuits ?

I'll need your serial number off the machine or the part number off the wiring diagram in the control panel, to direct you properly.

Thanks,
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:09 PM
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Yes I have a multi-meter. It is a Maytag. Model CWE5800ACB. Serial 19994641AJ. Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgsocal View Post
Yes I have a multi-meter. It is a Maytag. Model CWE5800ACB. Serial 19994641AJ. Thanks for the help!
CTG,

Great, You'll have this figuered out in no time,

Make sure you turn the power off to the unit, access the controls, and set your meter for the lowest resistance readings.
(you should do these test one at a time, and remove the wires off the terminals, so we don't get a false reading)

With the controls set in a Bake cycle:

Selector Switch,
Between terminals 1 and 3 = closed circuit
Between terminals 7 and 8 = closed circuit

Thermostat,
Between terminals BA and C = closed circuit
Between terminals C and NC = closed circuit

Door latch switch,
Between terminals C to NC = closed circuit (both switches/ if you have 2)

Reset the controls to the Self Clean cycle:

Selector Switch,
Between terminals 1 and 2 = closed circuit
Between terminals 5 and 6 = closed circuit

Timer/Clock
Between terminals 13 and 14 = closed circuit

Thermostat,
Between terminals 7 and 9 = closed circuit
Between terminals C and BR = closed circuit
Between terminals C to NC = closed circuit

Door latch switch,
C to NO = closed circuit

If all your resistance tests check proper, You would want to check Voltage (120 VAC) from each terminal(with the wires on) to chassis ground, and see where we're loosing the voltage or circuit.

Good Luck,
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for the test parameters. I will check it out as soon as possible.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgsocal View Post
Thanks for the test parameters. I will check it out as soon as possible.
CTG,

Great, we'll keep an eye out for your next post.

Remember, be careful doing those voltage checks(if you have to) Don't want you getting Zapped.

Good Luck

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