[nolesman98]

Nothng is hot. It just stays on all the time. What do I do to fix this? Is it the switch?

[denman]

Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER4320AAW RANGE- F/S STD ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

It does sound like one of the switches is at fault.
Finding which one may be a pain.
Safesst way is to use a meter.

You could also do live testing but be very very careful as you are dealing with 240 volts which is lethal. Yo may want to get a pro in if you are not experienced working with electricity.

Unplug the unit whenever working in it.

Looks like you have 2 wires switching the indicator on (the blacks).
LF and LR also RF and RR.

If you have a meter, unplug the unit.
Remove the wire from the P connector of the control and then measure from L1 to P. With the control set to off it should be infinite ohms (open).
I am not 100% sure of this so if the first control you check shows 0 ohms check another one just to be sure it is infinite ohms (open).

You can also do a live testing but this is dangerous.

Unplug the unit
(A) Remove the wire at the control LR (P) going to the light.
Tape it up if you have to, to ensure it cannot short to anything.
Plug the unit in if the light is now off you know it is either the LF or LR control.
Unplug the unit, reattach the wire and remove the wire from the LF control.
Again tape it if you have to.
Plug the unit in.
If the light is on then the LR control is the culprit.
If the light is off Then the LF control is the probable culprit.

If in step (A), the light was on then the problem is on the Right side controls.
So just do the same testing to figure out which one is shot.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[nolesman98]

Thanks for your help.

[KHIB]

Originally Posted by nolesman98

Thanks for your help.

I have a similar problem with a different electric Maytag Oven Range Model #MER5530AAW. One of my burners short circuited and tripped the circuit breaker. I've replaced the burner and wiring and the burner now works fine. However, one of the surface indicator lights remains on all the time even though there is nothing cooking. Is this dangerous and could it cause I fire? How do I fix this light so it operates properly. Thank you for your help.

[denman]

KHIB

Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for Maytag MER5530AAW RANGE- S/C F/S ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com


One of the infinite control switches is holding the light on.

[KHIB]

How do I open the control panel of my Maytag Range Model #MER5530AAW to get at this switch ? Can I reset this switch to fix it and if yes how would I do this or do I have to replace it with a new part/switch? Thank you.