[Lobokitchenaid]

I have a Kitchen Aid double, electric oven. Top is convection. Top ovens heating element will not go on. Was working fine until last night. While in the cleaning mode our power went out(incredible blizzard). When the power came on this morning it did not return to cleaning mode. When we went to turn the oven on it would not preheat in regular or broiler mode. Any suggestions as far as what it likely is?

Floundering outside Chi-town

[denman]

A model number may help others help you.
Model Number Locator

Are you saying that neither element goes on or that just the broiler element is not working?
Also are there any other symptoms/problems?

Many units have a thermal cut-off that kills power to one or both of the elements perhaps this blew. It is usually attached to the back or the top of the oven.

[Lobokitchenaid]

The Model number is KEBs277sbl02

There are not any other symptoms aside from neither the element for brolier or regular element will not light. Bottom oven works fine.

Thanks for the idea of the thermal cut-off. Is that something I could do myself and order online? ANy other thoughts as to what that might be?
Thanks so much for the input!

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KEBS277SBL02 27`` BUILT-IN ELECTRIC DOUBLE OVEN THERMAL CONVECTION | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet, see the attachment.

If you decide to tackle it this should help
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...all%20Oven.pdf

The unit does have thermal cutoffs, look in the L2 line of the wiring diagram in the tech sheet.

Is that something I could do myself
I cannot comment depends if you are comfortable with it and have some basic DIY skills. Just be sure that power is turned off when working on the unit. If you go to the Whirlpool site you can probably download the install sheet which may also be useful.

and order online?
See the parts

ANy other thoughts as to what that might be?
I would try running the diagnostics first.
I would measure it with a meter first just to be sure that it is the problem.
Could be a bad wire or a bad control board but the thermal cut-off would be at the top of my list.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[Lobokitchenaid]

Thanks for the good info, you have given me alot to think about and good direction.