Craig,

Do you have a multi meter, so you can check resistances and voltages ?

Did this happen all of a sudden , or did you have any failure codes in the display ?

Did this occur after a self clean cycle ?

As long as you're going to move the unit out, first thing would be to look and check the wiring to the elements,and voltage at the outlet,

Check the resistance of the oven temperature sensor, it should be 1050 to 1100 ohms resistance at room temperature, and 1650 ohms at 350 dgrs.

There are several other tests to make, but I don't want to overwhelm you.

Voltages to element and each element wire,
Voltages at the terminal block, both tests will be done while the oven is "ON", and there is 220-240 volts supplied to the range, and under a "load".

Let us know when you're ready, or what you've found with the checks you make.

:) :) :)

:) :)


Craig,

We're going to be doing "Live Voltage" checks,
*** Be CAREFUL, don't hurt yourself or short anything out ***

Disconnect the wires from the bake and broil element(s),

Program the clock for a selection and temperature,

Check the wire terminal end of each wire to chassis ground for 120 VAC.

If all wires have the voltage, we'd have to suspect a bad themperature sensor or a power supply problem under a "load".

If a wire has low or no voltage, you'll need to trace it back to the component, until you find the 120 VAC.

Under a "LOAD" test

With the wires all connected and tight,

Program a selection and temperature.

Test(s) at the terminal block:
(L1 and L2 are the power legs and outside terminals on the block
Neutral leg is the middle terminal,usually white wires).

L1 to neutral should have 120 VAC
L2 to neutral should have 120 VAC
L1 to L2 should have 220-240 VAC

If one power leg increases and the other decrease in VAC, you have a bad neutral circuit in the house wiring(most likely).

If one power leg decreases and the other remians 120 VAC, that leg is loose or weak in the house wiring.

I'm pretty sure you'll find the problem from here.

:) :) :)

Our pleasure,

Let us know what you find,

Thanks,

:) :) :)

Craig,

The black box on the control board is called a "relay", it's basic purpose is to operate or act like a switch, and supply power to the component it is attached to, in order to complete the circuit.

Did you check the black line on the relay, for 150 VAC when the range was powerred up ?

If so, and you had the voltage, yes, you will need to replace the oven control(ERC)

Part number: AP3206646

Dennis,

Good deal,

Let us know what you find, voltage should be 120 VAC on the black wire on the relay terminals.


:) :) :)