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GE Profile Broiler inoperative

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When I found the broiler element was not heating up on our 7 year old GE slide in range I

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Old 02-02-2011, 02:30 PM
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Default GE Profile Broiler inoperative
Model Number: JSP57CF1CC   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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When I found the broiler element was not heating up on our 7 year old GE slide in range I figured it would be an easy element swap and ordered the new element from appliancepartpros.com. The element was delivered in two days and I installed it immediately. NO JOY.
The baking element is fine but it takes 30 minutes to get up to 350 degrees. I cycled the breaker with no change and am now ready to pull out the appliance and troubleshoot. Are there internal fuses to the appliance or am I looking at locating a failed circuit board? Thanks for any help.


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Old 02-03-2011, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigscott View Post
When I found the broiler element was not heating up on our 7 year old GE slide in range I figured it would be an easy element swap and ordered the new element from appliancepartpros.com. The element was delivered in two days and I installed it immediately. NO JOY.
The baking element is fine but it takes 30 minutes to get up to 350 degrees. I cycled the breaker with no change and am now ready to pull out the appliance and troubleshoot. Are there internal fuses to the appliance or am I looking at locating a failed circuit board? Thanks for any help.

Craig,

Do you have a multi meter, so you can check resistances and voltages ?

Did this happen all of a sudden , or did you have any failure codes in the display ?

Did this occur after a self clean cycle ?

As long as you're going to move the unit out, first thing would be to look and check the wiring to the elements,and voltage at the outlet,

Check the resistance of the oven temperature sensor, it should be 1050 to 1100 ohms resistance at room temperature, and 1650 ohms at 350 dgrs.

There are several other tests to make, but I don't want to overwhelm you.

Voltages to element and each element wire,
Voltages at the terminal block, both tests will be done while the oven is "ON", and there is 220-240 volts supplied to the range, and under a "load".

Let us know when you're ready, or what you've found with the checks you make.

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Old 02-03-2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Craig,

Do you have a multi meter, so you can check resistances and voltages ?
Yes. 900 t0 1000ohms room temp

Did this happen all of a sudden , or did you have any failure codes in the display ?
No. No failur codes

Did this occur after a self clean cycle ?
No.

As long as you're going to move the unit out, first thing would be to look and check the wiring to the elements,and voltage at the outlet,
The insulation on and around the temperature probe wiring was burnt/brown. Ordered a replacement probe.

Check the resistance of the oven temperature sensor, it should be 1050 to 1100 ohms resistance at room temperature, and 1650 ohms at 350 dgrs. See above. Takes so long to warm up I didn't bother.

There are several other tests to make, but I don't want to overwhelm you.

Voltages to element and each element wire,
Voltages at the terminal block, both tests will be done while the oven is "ON", and there is 220-240 volts supplied to the range, and under a "load".

Let us know when you're ready, or what you've found with the checks you make.
The burnt insulation was so obvious I will try the probe next.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by craigscott View Post
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Craig,

We're going to be doing "Live Voltage" checks,
*** Be CAREFUL, don't hurt yourself or short anything out ***

Disconnect the wires from the bake and broil element(s),

Program the clock for a selection and temperature,

Check the wire terminal end of each wire to chassis ground for 120 VAC.

If all wires have the voltage, we'd have to suspect a bad themperature sensor or a power supply problem under a "load".

If a wire has low or no voltage, you'll need to trace it back to the component, until you find the 120 VAC.

Under a "LOAD" test

With the wires all connected and tight,

Program a selection and temperature.

Test(s) at the terminal block:
(L1 and L2 are the power legs and outside terminals on the block
Neutral leg is the middle terminal,usually white wires).

L1 to neutral should have 120 VAC
L2 to neutral should have 120 VAC
L1 to L2 should have 220-240 VAC

If one power leg increases and the other decrease in VAC, you have a bad neutral circuit in the house wiring(most likely).

If one power leg decreases and the other remians 120 VAC, that leg is loose or weak in the house wiring.

I'm pretty sure you'll find the problem from here.

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Old 02-04-2011, 09:42 AM
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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks much.
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by craigscott View Post
Thanks much.

Our pleasure,

Let us know what you find,

Thanks,

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Old 02-07-2011, 05:19 PM
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Both The orange and yellow lines to the baking element inicated 150v.
The orange line to the broiler element indicated 150v.
The purple line to the broiler element did not indicate but "stray" voltage readings.

The purple line goes to a "little black box"/device on the oven control clock labled as follows:
855AWP-1C-F-S-B U02
12V DC
10A/20A
240VAC/28VDC S0231

A notation nearby labels the device "broiler" and a black line from the power/terminal board also goes to this device. Can I replace this 855AWP-1C-F-S-B or does this indicate that I need to replace the oven control (clock) - AP3206646?
Thanks for your help.
Craig
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigscott View Post
Both The orange and yellow lines to the baking element inicated 150v.
The orange line to the broiler element indicated 150v.
The purple line to the broiler element did not indicate but "stray" voltage readings.

The purple line goes to a "little black box"/device on the oven control clock labled as follows:
855AWP-1C-F-S-B U02
12V DC
10A/20A
240VAC/28VDC S0231

A notation nearby labels the device "broiler" and a black line from the power/terminal board also goes to this device. Can I replace this 855AWP-1C-F-S-B or does this indicate that I need to replace the oven control (clock) - AP3206646?
Thanks for your help.
Craig

Craig,

The black box on the control board is called a "relay", it's basic purpose is to operate or act like a switch, and supply power to the component it is attached to, in order to complete the circuit.

Did you check the black line on the relay, for 150 VAC when the range was powerred up ?

If so, and you had the voltage, yes, you will need to replace the oven control(ERC)

Part number: AP3206646

Part number: AP3206646


If no voltage was found, you'll need to check and find the break in the black wire, going to the terminal block.

You're doing great, you'll be done and working in a few.

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Old 04-15-2011, 09:58 AM
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Thanks I'll try that first and see what happens
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:02 AM
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Thanks I'll try that first and see what happens
Dennis,

Good deal,

Let us know what you find, voltage should be 120 VAC on the black wire on the relay terminals.


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