Originally Posted by: Bendersj 
Following the repairs (rewired the "bad" wire), the oven worked fine for just over a full week.
Now, the same symptoms are back. The broiler doesn't turn on.
We used the oven, both elements worked...and then roughly 30 minutes later, went to broil something, and nothing.
Might it be a thermostat problem? Or are we looking at the controller afterall?
Benders,
The hi limit thermostat is not the problem, otherwise, your oven would be dead(no display no nothing)until the thermostat reset and closed.
So,
Let's try this,
*** live voltage test 120 VAC, be careful ***
Access the back of the ERC/Clock and power the unit up and program the clock time.
On the left lower corner of the board you'll see the control transformer.
There will be a black and white wire wires and terminals, Don't remove any wires, I want to know what happens"under a load".
Use the white wire as a common lead, and check all the black wires for 120 VAC from the white wire.
Now remove the blue wire from the "BR"terminal of the ERC and the yellow wire from the "BK" terminal.
Using the same white wire, check for 120 VAC on the "BK" terminal in bake.
Repeat the same procedure, check for 120 VAC on the "BR" terminal in broil.
Repeat the same test, re install the wires, and recheck voltage from white to BK, then white to BR.
Another check to make,
You'll need to get to the back of the wall oven and remove the terminal block cover,
Simillar to the prevoius checks
Neutral (white) is the middle terminal on the block.
Program a cycle, check for 120 VAC from white to L1(black) and white to L2(red) you should read 110 to 120 VAC on each check and 220 to 240 VAC across the L1 and L2 terminals, anything else would indicate a loose connection or damaged wires to the wall oven(in the wall).
Will be looking for your next post,
:) :) :)
