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Originally Posted by: Matt M  I actually do have a voltage meter but have never used it. Can you tell me what to check with it and how? Matt, Great, you'll have this problem figured out in no time, and up and cooking. *** We're going to be doing"LIVE" voltage checks ( mostly 120 VAC maybe a 240 VAC) so be careful, don't zap yourself, or short a component *** First, you should have a hidden bake element, that we need to access, Part number: AP3008280
4.
To remove the hidden bake element: a) Remove the right side panel (see page
4-19 for the procedure).
b) Spread the insulation away from the front of the hidden bake element.REMOVING A SIDE PANEL
1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range away from the wall so that
you can access the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the oven door and set it aside
(see page 4-22 for the procedure).
4. Pull the storage drawer out as far as it will
go.
5. Remove the two rear screws from the side
panel.
Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before servicing.
Replace all parts and panels before
operating.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
WARNING
6. From the rear of the unit, reach inside and
remove the screw from the bottom of the
side panel.
7. Slide the side panel forward and unhook
the front edge, then tilt the top of the side
panel out, and lift the panel from the unit
NOTE: When reinstalling the side panel, set
the bottom edge on the rail, hook the front edge
at the top and bottom, and install the two rear
screws; then install the bottom screw from
inside the rear of the unit.
Now that we have access to the element terminals,
Set your meter up to read 240 VAC(usually the 700 VAC setting), program a bake cycle at any temperature, and check for 240 VAC across the two terminals of the bake element, I expect you to read 120 VAC,but if you read 240 VAC, you've got a bad element.
If you read 120 VAC , power off the unit, remove 1 of the red wires from the element terminal, isolate it so it wont short out,
repeat bake program and check, for 120 VAC to chassis ground on the terminal you removed the wire from.
Carefully check the voltage from the red wire you removed from the element to chassis ground for 120 VAC.
Depending on , which wire that does not have Voltage, will determine which direction we go.
If the wire goes up around and towards the front of the unit, we'll be going to the control panel.
If the wire goes down towards the bottom frame, we'll be going to the DBL relay.
Part number: AP2994772
If we have to go up to the control panel/control board, You'll be doing the power off until you access the back of the control board(you've done this already for the thermostats) You'll power up, and make bake selection again, At terminal P11(red) to chassis ground, you should have 120 VAC, no voltage means you have a bad control board, with voltage , you'd have a broken wire to the element or bad relay. If we have to go down the the relay, Remove both red wires from the relay, and do the power up, check both red wire ends to chassis ground, the red wire with 120 VAC to ground, re attach it to one of the relay terminals,and do the power up and bake program again., You'll be checking from the yellow wire on the relay to chassis ground for 120 VAC , No voltage would indicate a bad control board,broken wire, Check for 120 VAC on connector J1 pin 7 (yellow wire)to chassis ground, no voltage, bad control board, with voltage bad yellow wire. With voltage on yellow wire check the white wire to chassis ground for 120 VAC, If you have voltage, relay coil is OK. Check the red wire(still attached to the relay) for 120 VAC to ground, have voltage, check the empty terminal for 120 VAC to chasis ground,have no voltage , you'd have a bad internal contact in the relay, I know this looks and sounds extreme, but it'll only take you a few minutes(20 to 30) to diagnose and order the correct part(s) or wire to repair, and you'll be up and running. Drop us a line when you're done, and let us know how things went, :) :) :)
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