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KitchenAid oven will not heat up... replace thermostat?

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I am having a similar problem to many other people in this forum. My kitchenaid oven will not heat up.

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Old 12-07-2010, 12:42 PM
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Default KitchenAid oven will not heat up... replace thermostat?
Model Number: kesc307hwh5   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I am having a similar problem to many other people in this forum. My kitchenaid oven will not heat up. Everything else works great but no heat (oven or broiler). Stove top works perfectly. From reading the other posts, it looks like I may need to replace the thermal fuse/thermostat/etc but I can't find it on the repair part list for model # kesc307hwh5.
Can any of the experts in here tell me where it is and what the actual name of the part is?! I appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!
Matt


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M View Post
I am having a similar problem to many other people in this forum. My kitchenaid oven will not heat up. Everything else works great but no heat (oven or broiler). Stove top works perfectly. From reading the other posts, it looks like I may need to replace the thermal fuse/thermostat/etc but I can't find it on the repair part list for model # kesc307hwh5.
Can any of the experts in here tell me where it is and what the actual name of the part is?! I appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!
Matt
Matt,

your thermal fuse and cooling fan thermostat are located inside the control panel, unlike most units, where they are located on the back of the oven cavity.

here is the part number for the fuse,

Part number: AP3853531

Part number: AP3853531


Once you've gotten access to it, it should be the thermostat on the left of the burner box frame.

Here are the access/repair instructions,

Good Luck,




1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range forward far enough to access
the end cap screws.
3. To remove the control panel:
a) Remove the screw from each end cap
b) Open the oven door and remove the
three screws from the bottom of the
control panel (see the photo at the top

of the right column).
c) Lift the front of the control panel, pull it
forward, and slide the front edge of the
cooktop glass out of the slot in the front
of the panel.
d) Rotate the control panel up and over so

the bottom side faces up.

5.
To remove a bimetal switch:
a) Remove the wires from the terminals.
b) Remove the mounting screw.

REASSEMBLY NOTE: When reinstalling the
control panel, insert the groove in the front of
the panel over the front edge of the cooktop
glass, and lower it onto the front of the range.
Be careful not to pinch any of the wires between
the front edge of the control panel and

the chassis.

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Old 12-11-2010, 09:43 AM
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Joe, I got the part and still have a problem. I replaced the part on the left hand side and when I put power back on.... the display is completely blank. The stove top still works but the oven controls are dead... nothing. At least when I have the existing part in place, I can turn the oven on, etc... it just never heats up.
Any ideas here? Are we sure this is the right part that you suggested???
FYI... the part that came looks identical to the therm fuse (or whatever it is) on the RIGHT HAND SIDE. I swapped the new part with the right hand side unit and I'm back to where I started. So I am wondering if there if a different part for the left hand side.
PLEASE ADVISE ASAP! Thanks.
Matt
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M View Post
Joe, I got the part and still have a problem. I replaced the part on the left hand side and when I put power back on.... the display is completely blank. The stove top still works but the oven controls are dead... nothing. At least when I have the existing part in place, I can turn the oven on, etc... it just never heats up.
Any ideas here? Are we sure this is the right part that you suggested???
FYI... the part that came looks identical to the therm fuse (or whatever it is) on the RIGHT HAND SIDE. I swapped the new part with the right hand side unit and I'm back to where I started. So I am wondering if there if a different part for the left hand side.
PLEASE ADVISE ASAP! Thanks.
Matt

Matt,

My mistake,

I apologize for the mis information,

You are correct, the manufacturer, decided to "switch" the location of the fan thermal fuse and the control thermo fuse,

So, your control thermo fuse Is the fuse on the right,

Part number: AP3067392

Part number: AP3067392


I apologize for any inconvenience, I caused you.

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Old 12-14-2010, 06:17 PM
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So I replaced both the Thermostat and the Therm cut-out.... still having the same problem! No heat being produced.

Any other suggestions before I have to surrender and call in a tech?
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M View Post
So I replaced both the Thermostat and the Therm cut-out.... still having the same problem! No heat being produced.

Any other suggestions before I have to surrender and call in a tech?

Matt,

If you can get your hands on a multi meter, you won't need a tech.

Part number: AP3873826

Part number: AP3873826


You'll still save money, and you can say "you fixxed it".

We'd need to check for vlotage from the control board thru the DLB relay(if present) and down to the element, or vice versa, easy stuff with a meter.

But you decide...

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Old 12-15-2010, 06:50 AM
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I actually do have a voltage meter but have never used it. Can you tell me what to check with it and how?
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M View Post
I actually do have a voltage meter but have never used it. Can you tell me what to check with it and how?

Matt,


Great, you'll have this problem figured out in no time, and up and cooking.

*** We're going to be doing"LIVE" voltage checks ( mostly 120 VAC maybe a 240 VAC) so be careful, don't zap yourself, or short a component ***

First, you should have a hidden bake element, that we need to access,

Part number: AP3008280

Part number: AP3008280




4.
To remove the hidden bake element:
a) Remove the right side panel (see page
4-19 for the procedure).
b) Spread the insulation away from the
front of the hidden bake element.

REMOVING A SIDE PANEL

1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range away from the wall so that
you can access the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the oven door and set it aside
(see page 4-22 for the procedure).
4. Pull the storage drawer out as far as it will
go.
5. Remove the two rear screws from the side
panel.


Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before servicing.
Replace all parts and panels before
operating.
Failure to do so can result in death or
electrical shock.
WARNING


6. From the rear of the unit, reach inside and
remove the screw from the bottom of the
side panel.
7. Slide the side panel forward and unhook
the front edge, then tilt the top of the side
panel out, and lift the panel from the unit



NOTE: When reinstalling the side panel, set
the bottom edge on the rail, hook the front edge
at the top and bottom, and install the two rear
screws; then install the bottom screw from
inside the rear of the unit.

Now that we have access to the element terminals,

Set your meter up to read 240 VAC(usually the 700 VAC setting), program a bake cycle at any temperature, and check for 240 VAC across the two terminals of the bake element, I expect you to read 120 VAC,but if you read 240 VAC, you've got a bad element.

If you read 120 VAC , power off the unit, remove 1 of the red wires from the element terminal, isolate it so it wont short out,

repeat bake program and check, for 120 VAC to chassis ground on the terminal you removed the wire from.

Carefully check the voltage from the red wire you removed from the element to chassis ground for 120 VAC.

Depending on , which wire that does not have Voltage, will determine which direction we go.

If the wire goes up around and towards the front of the unit, we'll be going to the control panel.

If the wire goes down towards the bottom frame, we'll be going to the DBL relay.

Part number: AP2994772

Part number: AP2994772


If we have to go up to the control panel/control board,

You'll be doing the power off until you access the back of the control board(you've done this already for the thermostats)
You'll power up, and make bake selection again,

At terminal P11(red) to chassis ground, you should have 120 VAC, no voltage means you have a bad control board, with voltage , you'd have a broken wire to the element or bad relay.

If we have to go down the the relay,

Remove both red wires from the relay, and do the power up, check both red wire ends to chassis ground, the red wire with 120 VAC to ground, re attach it to one of the relay terminals,and do the power up and bake program again.,

You'll be checking from the yellow wire on the relay to chassis ground for 120 VAC , No voltage would indicate a bad control board,broken wire,

Check for 120 VAC on connector J1 pin 7 (yellow wire)to chassis ground, no voltage, bad control board, with voltage bad yellow wire.

With voltage on yellow wire check the white wire to chassis ground for 120 VAC, If you have voltage, relay coil is OK.

Check the red wire(still attached to the relay) for 120 VAC to ground, have voltage, check the empty terminal for 120 VAC to chasis ground,have no voltage , you'd have a bad internal contact in the relay,

I know this looks and sounds extreme, but it'll only take you a few minutes(20 to 30) to diagnose and order the correct part(s) or wire to repair, and you'll be up and running.

Drop us a line when you're done, and let us know how things went,


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Old 12-15-2010, 03:47 PM
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OK... this should be interesting.

One question... if the broiler doesn't come on either, is there any reason to check the terminals on the hidden element?
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt M View Post
OK... this should be interesting.

One question... if the broiler doesn't come on either, is there any reason to check the terminals on the hidden element?

I have to admit, I'm making an educated guess,

It's not likely that both elements would fail at the same time.

It's not likely that both bake and broil circuits in the control would fail at the same time.

And since you've replaced the thermostat(s),

The most likely, situation is a bad wire to both elements, and or a bad DLB relay, which would be common to both elements.

Once we find the fault in the bake element circuit, the broil element will fall in place.

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