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mikeamondo  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 5:02:49 PM(UTC)
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mikeamondo

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Newbie to the forum here... trying some DIY oven repair...

My research led to Oven Thermostat or Oven Cycling Relay, and I found instructions to test them. But when I removed the back, all I see is a computer style circuit board, and the associated burner control modules. Nothing seemed to look like a relay or a 'liquid filled tempurature sensing bulb' switch thingy....

I did find the wires leading to what must be the temperature probe which extends into the back of the oven. Used my multimeter to test continuity, which seemed to exist.... so my guess the control circuit board is shot. Is there something else I can test here, or do I just need to replace the control unit circuit board thingy?

Thanks!
Mike
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 1:57:42 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for JBP65GW1WH models | AppliancePartsPros.com
Could not find a GW1WH but there is a GV1WH.

Yes it sounds like the control board is shot.
I am assuming that the only way to shut the element off is to flip the breaker.

If you click on the picture of the control board (Item 16 in Section 1) a new page will open with a picture of the back of the board, click on it to expend it.
You will see two black boxes (under the orange sticker), these are the control relays one for the bake and one for the broil element.
Sounds like the contacts on one of them may be welded together.

Unfortunately "Requires Special Attention" often means obsolete but you will have to call them to confirm this.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
mikeamondo  
#3 Posted : Saturday, December 4, 2010 3:39:19 AM(UTC)
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mikeamondo

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I had thought those might be the relays....

So, the control board is no longer produced or in stock. I've seen the options online of having it sent out to be rebuilt.... for nearly as much as the stove cost us!

Is it possible to replace just the relays and see if that helps? Are the relays available? Or, can the relays be fixed in some way?

I did find out that the temperature probe should show 1,000 ohms, so I'm going to recheck the continuity of that, just in case. But apparently, that should throw an error code of some sort, so I'm thinking relays.....
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, December 4, 2010 5:16:28 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Yes I also think it could be a relay or the integrated circuit that is controlling the relay.
The only way to tell is to figure out which connections are the relay contacts and then measure across them. They should be open if they are closed (0 ohms) then you know that the contacts are welded together,
Probably easiest to do this with the board out of the unit.

I do not know where you could get them.
Perhaps you could start another thread asking that question and with luck someone else has a supplier.

I would be sure to include the make and model and if you can see them the numbers off of the relays themselves.

As a last resort you could break into the relays and separate then clean the contacts. Use a fine emery cloth to do this. I would then re-install the board and check out it's operation with the relay cover off. Just to see that they are not arcing too much.
If it looks OK I would then unplug the unit and glue the covers back on using epoxy.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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