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Oven doesn't work, but range and broiler do

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My oven won't light, no smell of gas, but stove top burners and broiler work, fine. I have an Amana

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 08:33 AM
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Default Oven doesn't work, but range and broiler do
Model Number: ARG73022LL   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My oven won't light, no smell of gas, but stove top burners and broiler work, fine. I have an Amana

Model: ARG73022LL
Serial: 9901184093

If it is a bad igniter, shouldn't I still smell gas?

Thanks for you help


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 10:50 AM
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First, I believe this may be your model # ARG7302LL and not this one with an apparent typo ARG73022LL.

To answer you final question.
No, if the igniter is bad you should not smell gas; the valve should not open. The change of resistance in the igniter when energized is what sends the appropriate voltage back to the gas valve when calling for gas to open. With a failed igniter this won't happen. With regards to the location that has failed, this is consistent with why your other areas are still functional.

I like to also add, I am not familiar with this particular model however, I think I can offer you some information that may be useful.
The least expensive route and a likely culprit would be the bake igniter (oven igniter) as you were perhaps suggesting.
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Oven igniter, part number: AP2934763

If this doesn't glow and I mean hotter than cherry red, it should resemble white-ish orange after it is on for a few moments almost white hot. A weak igniter may or may not be sufficient to call for gas at the valve. When it comes up to a working temperature, it sends a change in current back (a signal) to the gas valve which will then allow the valve to open when calling for gas.
If yours doesn't glow very bright or at all, it has failed or failed completely. If not glowing you willl usually you will find a hair-line crack or a missing piece upon inspection. The only other thing that would give a false failure is no or inadequate current where the igniter attaches. (Odds are this is not the case; you should have somewhere close to 120v.)
The new part is hard and brittle be careful not to damage it when installing it.
Only use ceramic wire nuts with the insulated jackets on the wires.
Also, sometimes you have to use your old mounting bracket so be careful not to damage it.
Let me know if you get a very hot igniter and still no ignition, ok?
This would point to perhaps a broken wire or maybe something else.


Nic

Last edited by Nic2009 : 11-29-2010 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:27 PM
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I turned on the oven and the igniter doesn't even get hot. I'm guessing that is the issue. I ordered the replacement. Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jconway1968 View Post
I turned on the oven and the igniter doesn't even get hot. I'm guessing that is the issue. I ordered the replacement. Thanks for your help.
Don't forget to unplug the unit while servicing.
It probably goes without saying, but it's better to say as a reminder.

Certainly & you're welcome.
Good luck JConway.

Nic

Last edited by Nic2009 : 11-29-2010 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:35 AM
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I got the part today and I installed it and the oven starts right up... That is the good news. The bad news is that the ceramic portion of the igniter is a good 3-4 inches too long and does not mount properly. I double checked with the link that I was sent and it is the right part.

Thoughts?
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:27 PM
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Never Mind... I called the parts place and they figured out they sent me to wrong part. They are sending out a replacement...

Thanks anyway...
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jconway1968 View Post
Never Mind... I called the parts place and they figured out they sent me to wrong part. They are sending out a replacement...

Thanks anyway...
Your Welcome, I am glad that everything worked out.

Nic
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