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Please help! Whirlpool rf368lxkt Oven dead, Cooktop works

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I love this oven and I do not want to get rid of it. Please save it from the graveyard!

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Old 11-17-2010, 06:38 PM
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Smile Please help! Whirlpool rf368lxkt Oven dead, Cooktop works
Model Number: rf368lxkt   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I love this oven and I do not want to get rid of it. Please save it from the graveyard! There is no power to the control board but the cook top works. I purchased a new display/control board and installed but it still does not work. I looked for the thermal fuse but could not find it under the back cover. The oven stopped working during/after a cleaning cycle and has not worked since. The connector to the control board has 240 VAC going through it so I know the control board/display is getting power. Is there a special sequence I need to execute to get the new control borad to work?? Sincerely Puzzled (and fustrated)! Thank you so much for your help in advance!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2010, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkrm1974@yahoo.com View Post
I love this oven and I do not want to get rid of it. Please save it from the graveyard! There is no power to the control board but the cook top works. I purchased a new display/control board and installed but it still does not work. I looked for the thermal fuse but could not find it under the back cover. The oven stopped working during/after a cleaning cycle and has not worked since. The connector to the control board has 240 VAC going through it so I know the control board/display is getting power. Is there a special sequence I need to execute to get the new control borad to work?? Sincerely Puzzled (and fustrated)! Thank you so much for your help in advance!
There is no thermal fuse on that stove. You either have a bad control board, or a burn't wire maybe in the back of the oven, where the power comes into the cord. Plus, if the control went out in the clean cycle, you need to replace the oven sensor too. Tom ********************************************
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkrm1974@yahoo.com View Post
I love this oven and I do not want to get rid of it. Please save it from the graveyard! There is no power to the control board but the cook top works. I purchased a new display/control board and installed but it still does not work. I looked for the thermal fuse but could not find it under the back cover. The oven stopped working during/after a cleaning cycle and has not worked since. The connector to the control board has 240 VAC going through it so I know the control board/display is getting power. Is there a special sequence I need to execute to get the new control borad to work?? Sincerely Puzzled (and fustrated)! Thank you so much for your help in advance!

Clark,

Do you have a multi meter ?

As stated before , there is no thermal fuse in the circuitry and if your display is blank,

You've lost power to the clock.

If you have a meter, you can check :

The P6 connector on the ERC(clock),
(unplug and check on the wire harness connector)

Pin #1 Black wire, to pin#3 white wire,

You should read 110 - 120 volts AC
*** Be careful, don't hurt yourself or short anything out ***

If you have the voltage, you have a bad ERC.

If you don't, start checking wires,connectors, and terminals for damage, burnt, loose,etc.

Good Luck,
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:23 PM
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Awesome Joe,
Ok, cool! I think I am getting somewhere here! I checked pins 1 & 3 and got a reading back of about 90 vac. This does not meet the range you stated. Can you please direct me as to what I may to do next? I checked wires for continuity and everything looked good. Thank you so much for your assistance so far!

Last edited by clarkrm1974@yahoo.com : 11-21-2010 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkrm1974@yahoo.com View Post
Awesome Joe,
Ok, cool! I think I am getting somewhere here! I checked pins 1 & 3 and got a reading back of about 90 vac. This does not meet the range you stated. Can you please direct me as to what I may to do next? I checked wires for continuity and everything looked good. Thank you so much for your assistance so far!

Clark,

Now we need to do voltage checks, where the power cord is attached to the junction box on the range.

Your terminal block should have 3 terminals where the wires attach.

left / black, center / white, and right/red.

Across the outside terminals,(red to black)with the range plugged in.
***( be careful don't shock yourself)***

You should read 220-240 volts AC

From each outside terminal to the middle terminal(white) you should read 110 - 120 volts AC.

If you have those readings, then you'll need to check the black wire(P6-1) to the clock, the wire is not carrying the load to the clock(90 VAC) for loose connections and weak spots in the wire.

If you read something other than those voltages(high or low) You've got a problem in the wiring to the range(loose connection at the outlet, loose connection at the terminal block,loose wire at the breaker box or in the conduit(electrician needed).

Good Luck,

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Old 11-30-2010, 04:51 PM
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Joe, you have been so helpful! I've got to be getting close now. I did get some odd readings at the main terminals. From the Black to the White I got 82 VAC and from the Red to the White I got 244 VAC. I did not try the Red to Black unfortunately. Neither of these readings are within your stated range of 110 to 120 VAC. Is there anything you may now that will cause this?
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkrm1974@yahoo.com View Post
Joe, you have been so helpful! I've got to be getting close now. I did get some odd readings at the main terminals. From the Black to the White I got 82 VAC and from the Red to the White I got 244 VAC. I did not try the Red to Black unfortunately. Neither of these readings are within your stated range of 110 to 120 VAC. Is there anything you may now that will cause this?

Clark,

With those readings,

You've got a couple of possibilities :

1) You may have a bad power cord, (but not likely), or loose connections at the terminal / wire connections on the outlet itself,

2) You most likely have lost the Neutral leg(white wire) integrity on your
power supply wiring, You're going to need an Electrician.

** with the numbers you supplied, a good electrician, will know what to check and do, but he should do his tests with the range under a load **

If you check voltage at the outlet, you'll most likely get the proper voltage readings on your meter.

When you plug the power cord in, the range is under a "load" because of the ERC,and a couple of other comonents.

A weak/bad neutral leg, will not allow the voltage to flow through the supply wiring and components properly, and there is a "back up" and the stray voltage migrates over to the other power leg, so you see an increase on one power leg, and a decrease on the other.

Hope this helps,

Good Luck,
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:37 AM
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I have this same model range and have encountered the same problem. I followed the trouble shooting advice posted here. I have the proper voltages in the proper places. Is there any way I can be 100% positive that the control module is bad before purchasing a new one? At the price these things go for it would be an expensive experiment, and I can't afford to be wrong.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by myersv View Post
I have this same model range and have encountered the same problem. I followed the trouble shooting advice posted here. I have the proper voltages in the proper places. Is there any way I can be 100% positive that the control module is bad before purchasing a new one? At the price these things go for it would be an expensive experiment, and I can't afford to be wrong.
Myersv, If you conducted the voltage checks per the previous posts, and all was OK, you have a faulty ERC/Clock

Part number: AP3841171

Part number: AP3841171


If you wish to double check the system :
Remove power to the range, access the back of the ERC and disconnect the P6 connector from the back of the ERC. Re establish power to the range, using a multi meter check across P6 pin 1(Black) and P6 pin3(White), you should have a voltage reading of 110 to 120 VAC ( this is the L1 power supply to/through the range) If you have the voltage, the fault is in the ERC.
Thanks,

Tech%20Sheet%20-%208053296.pdf
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