[Roggy]

I was getting an F3 Fault Code. I replaced the Sensor. I still get an F3 Fault Code. I replaced the Control Board. I still get an F3 Fault Code. I had a Service Tech come out and he found a part that he could not identify which he says is bad. There is a 3" wiring piece between the plug from the sensor and the Control Board. He says that there is no continuity from one end of the piece to the other. This piece has a 2-prong "female" plastic plug on one end (plugs into the lead coming from the Sensor) and a 3-prong "female" plastic plug on the other (plugs into the Contol Board - only 2 holes are used, the two outside holes). Inbetween the two plugs are two wires. One is a blue insulated wire and the other looks to be bare with an oversized insulation on it that reads "NE 105C L.T. 600 VW". I am assuming it may have been some type of resistor or something like that. This is the wire that doesn't have any continuity. The Service Tech can't identify it and it's not on the Parts Lists or Drawings. Does anyone know what it is and if so where can I find a new one??? Surely there's one somewhere. I'd hate to buy a new wall oven just because of this little part. HELP!!!

[Pegi]

According to your wiring diagram that is a fuse that opens at 102 degrees....not sure if you have to replace the wiring harness to obtain that fuse or not, will see what I can find.... CLICK HERE FOR WIRING DIAGRAM

[Pegi]

This might, just might work in place of the fuse you now have in your range, this is for the Whirlpool ranges, Roper is made by Whirlpool, I cannot be responsable if this will not be right for your unit...
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Fuse - thrml, part number: 9781691

[Roggy]

Thanks Pegi, but I don't think that will work. That piece looks like it has a ring lug on one end. And the piece I have has 2 wires with female plugs on both ends. One plug that plugs into the Sensor and the other plugs into the Control Board. Any other suggestions?????? Like I said..."Surely someone has one like this."

[Pegi]

I do not, suspect the harness would have to be ordered, perhaps someone else will have a better suggestion...

[Roggy]

Still Waiting For Someone To Answer This Message That Knows How I Can Find This Part! I Thought This Was A Help Forum!?!?

[richappy]

Try pushing in on each connector pin, sometimes they get pushed out a little and fail to make contact. Also, you might try a non-residue spray combined with pushing the connectors together a few times.

[Roggy]

I fixed my problem!
It was the wiring piece that plugged in between the "Clock" and the Leads coming from the Sensor. One of the wires as I described between the plugs was a Thermal Resistor. I ordered one from Mousser Electronics and replaced it. I had to cut the old one out and the new one comes with crimp lugs. (Don't solder it or you'll blow the resistor again) I tried that. Good thing I ordered two. ($1.22 ea) I am beginning to think the problem started when we had the oven go through a "Self Clean". The high temperature must have blew the resistor. It has a different plug on each end so you can't wire/plug the sensor direct to the "Clock". You have to have this "WIRING PIECE" to connect the Sensor Leads to the Clock. The only problem I have now is the oven had a fan that turned on during use similar to a convection oven. Now the fan doesn't come on. It will if I turn the breaker off and back on but I have to push the "Cancel" button to get the fan to turn off and when I do it doesn't come back on when I push the "Bake" button to start the oven heating. My wife says it's OK if the fan doesn't work. The oven does now and we didn't have to buy a new one!!!