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I have a KitchenAid model KGRK806PSS that shut down during self cleaning. The door is now locked and the display

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Old 11-04-2010, 08:11 AM
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Default Kitchenaid will not turn on after cleaning
Model Number: KGRK806PSS   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a KitchenAid model KGRK806PSS that shut down during self cleaning. The door is now locked and the display is blank. I have unplugged it for 30 minutes to see if it would come back up and it will not. I am assuming there is either a fuse or a power supply that could be causing the problem. Any suggestions? I do not have a service manual. I repair equipment for a living so am really good with meters and electronics. I just need some direction on how to get the door open and to a system diagram so I can follow the power.


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Old 11-04-2010, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasontetzlaff View Post
I have a KitchenAid model KGRK806PSS that shut down during self cleaning. The door is now locked and the display is blank. I have unplugged it for 30 minutes to see if it would come back up and it will not. I am assuming there is either a fuse or a power supply that could be causing the problem. Any suggestions? I do not have a service manual. I repair equipment for a living so am really good with meters and electronics. I just need some direction on how to get the door open and to a system diagram so I can follow the power.
Jason,

You most likely have an open control thermal fuse,

Part number: AP3799085

Part number: AP3799085


And possibly a cooling fan thermostat,

Part number: AP3086326

Part number: AP3086326


Did you notice if the cooling fan was running during the clean cycle ?

In your particular case, your thermal fuse and thermostat are mounted on the front of the burner box, behind the control panel.

You'll need to slide the range out a couple of inches to remove the screws that hold the panel to the side frame,then the screws across the bottom of the the control panel, then remove it.

Good Luck,

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Old 11-04-2010, 01:03 PM
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Thanks Joe. I will check into those two items. Do you know if the front panel can be removed with the door still locked? I was not there to notice if the fan was running or not. It is actually my parents oven and I told them I would look into fixing it for them.

Do you know what the resistance sgould be at room temperature for the fan Thermostat?
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasontetzlaff View Post
Thanks Joe. I will check into those two items. Do you know if the front panel can be removed with the door still locked? I was not there to notice if the fan was running or not. It is actually my parents oven and I told them I would look into fixing it for them.

Do you know what the resistance sgould be at room temperature for the fan Thermostat?

I knew I forgot something;

No, you can't get to the control panel, with the door locked(I forgot, DUH).

My method,(most guys have thier own).

I use a straightenned out metal coat hanger,

Put a 2 inch hook at the end(so it looks like an upside down check mark,verizon logo).

Insert the hooked end, from the left side of the door, in between the door liner and the cavity (at the top of the door ) until you hear or feel the hook slip over the latch arm mid way across the door.

Push in lightly on the oven door handle, and pull the hanger back out slowly until it stops, then open the door.

( it may take a couple of tries, but you'll get it ).

Everything should reset after the repair and you power the unit back up.

The fan control thermostat should be an open circuit( no resistance ) at room temperature.

The control thermal fuse should be a closed circuit(infinite resistance) at any time it's tested.

Good Luck,

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Old 11-05-2010, 07:40 AM
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I got the door open. The fan thermostat behind the back panel was open. When I jumped the wires then I had power to the display and the door opened. The oven seemed to work with that thermostat bypasses. That now does not make sense since you said that the Thermostat should be open at room temperature. The thermal fuse behind the front panel was indeed open but as I said. The oven worked when bypassing the thermostat that was open.

I ordered a new thermostat and thermal fuse and will try those.
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasontetzlaff View Post
I got the door open. The fan thermostat behind the back panel was open. When I jumped the wires then I had power to the display and the door opened. The oven seemed to work with that thermostat bypasses. That now does not make sense since you said that the Thermostat should be open at room temperature. The thermal fuse behind the front panel was indeed open but as I said. The oven worked when bypassing the thermostat that was open.

I ordered a new thermostat and thermal fuse and will try those.

Jason,

Replacing both parts is the best way to go, anyway.

Do you know if your parents had the range repaired before ?

At one point there was a reccomendation to reposition(reverse) the thermal fuse and thermostat positions on the burner box to activate the cooling fan sooner, and lessen the posibility of the fuse openning. I'm wonderring if that's what occurred ?

The great thing is, you've got your Mom and Dad up and running.

Good Luck,

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Old 01-25-2013, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasontetzlaff View Post
I have a KitchenAid model KGRK806PSS that shut down during self cleaning. The door is now locked and the display is blank. I have unplugged it for 30 minutes to see if it would come back up and it will not. I am assuming there is either a fuse or a power supply that could be causing the problem. Any suggestions? I do not have a service manual. I repair equipment for a living so am really good with meters and electronics. I just need some direction on how to get the door open and to a system diagram so I can follow the power.
I have this exact problem. I purchased and replaced the "Thermal Fuse" in the front. I was somewhat confused as it appears there are two of these exact same appearing things under the control panel.. Only one had the red "dot" on it and so did the new part so I replaced that one.. I tested the one I removed and it was a closed circuit.. So I believe that this part was ok? and maybe I did not find the problem.. What is my next step? I had one heck of a time getting that front panel off and even bent the sides of the oven doing it? Where is the Cooling Fan thermostat? And is this the next likely thing to replace?
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkwoods View Post
I have this exact problem. I purchased and replaced the "Thermal Fuse" in the front. I was somewhat confused as it appears there are two of these exact same appearing things under the control panel.. Only one had the red "dot" on it and so did the new part so I replaced that one.. I tested the one I removed and it was a closed circuit.. So I believe that this part was ok? and maybe I did not find the problem.. What is my next step? I had one heck of a time getting that front panel off and even bent the sides of the oven doing it? Where is the Cooling Fan thermostat? And is this the next likely thing to replace?
Drkwoods,
The cooling fan thermostat,

Part number: AP3853531

Part number: AP3853531


is the other assembly, under the cooktop. but that's not the concern, at this point. The thermal fuse you need to locate and check or replace is located on the back of the range

Part number: AP3086326

Part number: AP3086326


You'll need to slide the range out of the cabinet, remove the rear cover panel to access and replace it.

The Tech Data Information Sheet may help you out better.

Tech%20Sheet%20-%209761387.pdf

Thanks,
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:26 AM
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Ok, so let me get this straight Should I put the fuse I swapped out under the control panel back in and take the part I bought from here (AP3799085) out? Did I replace the wrong fuse? If I did, I'm going to put back the one I pulled out and then open up the back and replace the cooling fan thermostat? #AP3086326 ?
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:29 AM
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After looking at the diagrams it appears I did replace the correct one up front (under control panel) left, but it did not fix the oven. It is still dead and now I suppose I should go after that cooling fan thermostat?
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