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schieftain  
#1 Posted : Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:24:05 AM(UTC)
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schieftain

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One of our stove burners started getting really hot, really fast. We had replaced the element about a year ago. Tried swapping it with another element and did the same. I believe the burner control is shot, giving it full power only. I ordered a new control switch. Part # for new is 74011243. I received the new switch (says Maytag), and it has a different number of terminals, but most terminals are labeled so I can match the wires up– except for one. On the old switch, the last wire goes to a terminal marked P. One the new switch I still have 3 terminals to choose from! P1, P2, and one with no code. Where do I connect this last wire?

Also, if I instal the switch so that the Top is at the top, the dial will not be lined up with the other dials, or the markings on the front of the stove. Can I turn the dial 90 degrees to line up, without that causing a problem?
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:24:09 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: schieftain Go to Quoted Post
...Can I turn the dial 90 degrees...


What did you call "dial"?

If you can post a pictures of the switch terminals it might help to find out the right terminals.

Gene.
schieftain  
#3 Posted : Friday, October 31, 2008 3:54:59 AM(UTC)
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schieftain

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Gene– I'll take picts this weekend of both switches, I am at work now.

Re. turning the dial– I should have asked, "can I turn the switch", so that the dial is oriented correctly.

If I hold the new switch so that the word TOP is at the top, the point of the dial points to 3 o'clock. (Due to the shape of the post on the switch and how the dial fits on it.)
Gene  
#4 Posted : Friday, October 31, 2008 10:37:57 AM(UTC)
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Gene

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Possible the shaft is in a middle position. Turn it until it clicks and pops out.

Gene.
schieftain  
#5 Posted : Monday, November 3, 2008 4:09:22 AM(UTC)
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schieftain

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Hi Gene–

That is where the shaft is when popped out. I'm attaching photos.
Re. the shaft– you can see how it is oriented compared to the old switch. Is there any reason why I can't turn the whole switch 90 degrees to line up correctly?

Re. terminals– On the new switch there is a P2 and an unmarked terminal after I hook all the others up. The one wire I'm left with comes from P, it just goes to the indicator light on the front of stove.

On new switch– P1 is just a slot.

On new switch– L2 is a double. I'm assuming I can just connect to one of them?

Also attaching photo of schematic form back of stove.

-Jeff
schieftain attached the following image(s):
NewSwitch.jpg
OldSwitch72.jpg
OldWires.jpg
Schematic.jpg
Spindles.jpg
Gene  
#6 Posted : Monday, November 3, 2008 12:41:56 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: schieftain Go to Quoted Post
1 ...Is there any reason why I can't turn the whole switch 90 degrees to line up correctly?

2 On the new switch there is a P2 and an unmarked terminal after I hook all the others up. The one wire I'm left with comes from P, it just goes to the indicator light on the front of stove.

3 On new switch– L2 is a double. I'm assuming I can just connect to one of them?...


Hi Jeff,

1 I don't see why you can not turn the switch as long as it would not cause cross wires.

2 With the switch in "off" position check for continuity between the "L1" and "P2" terminals. It should be no continuity. Then turn the switch "on" and check the same terminals for continuity. If the circuit is closed then you have to connect the wire from the indicator light to the "P2" terminal.

3 No problem with that.

It is very important to make sure that the "L1" is the same line for all switches as well as the "L2".

Gene.
schieftain  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 4, 2008 4:16:56 AM(UTC)
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schieftain

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Ok, I'll check the continuity.

Thanks, Gene.
schieftain  
#8 Posted : Thursday, November 6, 2008 3:53:17 AM(UTC)
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schieftain

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Gene–

When switch is off I have no continuity between P2 and L1.

When switch is on I do have continuity between P2 and L1.

If I'm reading you right, that's means I can use P2 for the wire to the light.

I'll be careful to make sure my L1 and L2 wires are same as other switches.

Thanks,
Jeff
Gene  
#9 Posted : Thursday, November 6, 2008 10:20:08 AM(UTC)
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Gene

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Jeff,

You are on the right track. Keep us posted.

Gene.
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