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Element failure - replacement not heating

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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The Broil heating element failled and was replace with an new OEM element. Now, neither the Broil nor the Oven

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Old 10-26-2008, 04:34 PM
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Default Element failure - replacement not heating
Model Number: RBS275PDB14   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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The Broil heating element failled and was replace with an new OEM element. Now, neither the Broil nor the Oven element will heat. The error code shows as "F0" center of the display in large green font and "E0" in the top left corner in smaller red font. This error code is not listed in the Whirlpool tech sheet so I wonder why the elements fail to heat.

I have a Fluke 77 series II multimeter and and a basic understanding of its use in testing. Is there an "If XYZ..." - "Then XYZ..." test sequence that I can use to diagnose or isolate the failed parts or problems? I'd like to have a testing procedure to make sure I do not get sparky while testing in a 220+ environment.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you might provide with this matter.

Regards,

thomas


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 11:43 AM
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Hi Thomas,

The first thing I would do is remove the oven from the cabinet, remove the rear cover and check the oven shutdown thermal fuse (#37 on the break down diagram) for continuity. Replace the fuse if it's open. Do not forget to turn off the oven circuit breakers first.

- The part number for the oven shutdown thermal fuse is AP3885687

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool oven Model RBS275PDB14

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Old 11-04-2008, 05:23 PM
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Default Thermal fuse tests OK

I turned off the oven's main power breaker and Ohm tested the thermal breaker - it's closed when the power is off and reads 1.8 ohms / 110.9VAC / 5.9 AC with the breaker on. When the broiler is set at 500 deg the fuse reads 241 VAC and 11.9AC on both sides of the fuse.

With the broiler set at 500 deg and the red test lead on the left element connection it reads 11.9AC and 241 VAC - the black test lead is on the oven frame. Same readings for the right element connection and for both sides of the oven element but the elements do not heat.

Is there a test protocol that I can follow to isolate the faulty fuse or part?

Thanks again for giving your time and sharing your experience with this forum.

thomas
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:02 PM
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Thomas,

You have to remove the wires from the thermal fuse before you test it for continuity. You can not do it under power!

You have to remove wires from at least one terminal on a heating element to check the voltage. You have to check each wire to ground and the correct reading should be 120VAC. The voltage reading between wires should be 240VAC (wires are removed from the heating element).

You do not have to perform voltage test if the thermal fuse is open. Just replace the thermal fuse.

Gene.
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