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KitchenAid kesc308 display panel went out

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I have a KitchenAid KESC308L Slid in Electric Range. It's around 6 years old. Today, the electronic control/display panel went

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Old 09-24-2010, 02:32 PM
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Exclamation KitchenAid kesc308 display panel went out
Model Number: KESC308LSS0   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a KitchenAid KESC308L Slid in Electric Range. It's around 6 years old. Today, the electronic control/display panel went out. No LED's light; however, when any buttons are pressed on the panel, it responds with a beep -- which lets me know that it recognizes that buttons are being pressed. Also, when I press the Oven Light button, the oven light does, in fact, toggle on and off in response to the control panel. Also, the mechanical (rotary) knobs that control the cooktop burners are working -- i.e., the burners turn on and heat up correctly in response to the control knobs. The problem is that the LED display info is all dark; so there's no way to set or control the oven. Has anyone seen a problem like this before with a KitchenAid Range? Any idea what went wrong, or how to fix this?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2011, 11:14 AM
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Default Kitchenaid Control Panel

I also have a KitchenAid KESC308L Slid in Electric Range. My control panel display would sporadically stop working, now it never lights up. Everything responds and works properly, but nothing lights up. I have seen this post on here, but no solutions or suggestions have been posted. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:45 AM
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Default Cold Solder Joint

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg1303 View Post
I also have a KitchenAid KESC308L Slid in Electric Range. My control panel display would sporadically stop working, now it never lights up. Everything responds and works properly, but nothing lights up. I have seen this post on here, but no solutions or suggestions have been posted. Anyone have any ideas?
The problem may be a cold solder joint on the male 13-pin AMP connector on the display board. Cut the power, remove the console and then remove the control board. Gently twist the metal tabs to release the control board from the metal plate beneath it to expose the underside. At the top left side (near the clear plastic indicator light that you likely just removed) you will see a 13-pin connector. Carefully remove the solder from each pin and resolder using 60/40 tin/lead solder.

I suspect that the solder used at the factory was RoHS complaint and did not contain lead. The lead gives the joint elasticity and makes for a better connection. This takes a steady hand and the right tools. Not something a first-timer should try. But, I performed this repair last night and the intermittent problem has gone away. I used to be able to cause the display to cut in and out by manipulating the ribbon cable and now I cannot.
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:21 PM
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Talking

[quote=The problem may be a cold solder joint on the male 13-pin AMP connector on the display board.[/QUOTE]

I had the same issue with intermittent control panel LED operation. If I bumped the surface of the panel lightly with my fist, the control lights would come back on for a time, but go dark again eventually. Removed the electronic oven control board as suggested above, and when examining the underside where the 13-pin connector solder joints are, I could just make out a hairline crack at the base of the leftmost pin. In fact, I plugged the range back in and very gingerly wiggled the connector back and forth slightly and could see the LEDs working. I re-soldered just that one joint (unplugging the range again first), re-assembled, and all LEDs work like new--thanks for the repair advice!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:53 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdevenyi View Post
I had the same issue with intermittent control panel LED operation. If I bumped the surface of the panel lightly with my fist, the control lights would come back on for a time, but go dark again eventually. Removed the electronic oven control board as suggested above, and when examining the underside where the 13-pin connector solder joints are, I could just make out a hairline crack at the base of the leftmost pin. In fact, I plugged the range back in and very gingerly wiggled the connector back and forth slightly and could see the LEDs working. I re-soldered just that one joint (unplugging the range again first), re-assembled, and all LEDs work like new--thanks for the repair advice!
I had this exact issue - just the leftmost pin - thanks for the quick fix advice!
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