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I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 04:01 PM
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Default Oven cuts off and control panel blanks until oven cools

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I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.

Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?

Many thanks

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sanjayG View Post
I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.

Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?

Many thanks
Sanjay, There are a couple of things to check, first make sure the cooling fan runs

Part number: AP4280271

Part number: AP4280271


If the motor doesn't run and cool the cooktop, the hi limit switch will open and turn the power off to the control. Then test or replace the hi limit switch

Part number: AP4041090

Part number: AP4041090


When it opens, power to the control is eliminated. It's located on the upper right area of the cavity, on the back of the range, or under the cooktop, in the same area.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:33 PM
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Default P1130755n

Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramantt View Post
Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.
Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
Part number: AP4041090

Part number: AP4041090

and
Part number: AP4041226

Part number: AP4041226


You'll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
Part number: AP4041311

Part number: AP4041311
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
Part number: AP4041090

Part number: AP4041090

and
Part number: AP4041226

Part number: AP4041226


You'll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
Part number: AP4041311

Part number: AP4041311
OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don't remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit.

Here is what my control unit looks like.

If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.


Last edited by supramantt : 11-13-2013 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by supramantt View Post
OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don't remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit.

Here is what my control unit looks like.

If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.

Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it's pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn't interfere with the display it's normal.
We've included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor's OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don't think you'll find any loose connections or wiring, but you'll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it's pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn't interfere with the display it's normal.
We've included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor's OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don't think you'll find any loose connections or wiring, but you'll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.
A broken fan wont stop the unit from turning on, right? Also, if i have replaced both limit switches, then the only next step is to replace/repair the control board, is that correct? Being that i see the board has been replaced at least once, i have a strong feeling it has gone out again.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by supramantt View Post
A broken fan wont stop the unit from turning on, right? Also, if i have replaced both limit switches, then the only next step is to replace/repair the control board, is that correct? Being that i see the board has been replaced at least once, i have a strong feeling it has gone out again.
Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won't stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to "shut down" in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn't run and cool the area. If you've replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren't aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:24 PM
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Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won't stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to "shut down" in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn't run and cool the area. If you've replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren't aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.
I have tested the fan, it works flawlessly. I think the reason i thought it did not work was because it is so silent. Anyways, i have tested multiple outlets and still nothing. I have disassembled the control unit and i thought i found a faulty relay, but i just remove the relay and opened it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it. There was gunk leaking from the bottom of the relay and i thought that was strange because relays dont usually have gunk inside. Anyways, everything looked normal when i opened the relay. I am totally baffled. Can you think of anything else that might cause the system to not power up?
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:57 AM
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I have tested the fan, it works flawlessly. I think the reason i thought it did not work was because it is so silent. Anyways, i have tested multiple outlets and still nothing. I have disassembled the control unit and i thought i found a faulty relay, but i just remove the relay and opened it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it. There was gunk leaking from the bottom of the relay and i thought that was strange because relays dont usually have gunk inside. Anyways, everything looked normal when i opened the relay. I am totally baffled. Can you think of anything else that might cause the system to not power up?
Supramantt, At this point, the only thing left is voltage. or that's where we need to start over at. At the back of the control/erc, check from the J5 pin 4(black/white wire) across to the J4 pin 10(white wire) and you should read 120 VAC with the power cord plugged into the outlet. Then check from J4 pin 8(black wire) across to J4 pin 10 (white wire) If the voltages are present, then the control/erc is faulty. If the voltages aren't present, you will need to trace the wiring and components back to the power cord terminals until you find the voltage and repair or replace the wire or faulty component. You need to be careful conducting these "live" voltage tests, you could hurt yourself if you touch or ground yourself to the chassis.
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