Electronic Oven control


Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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I have a frigidaire smooth top range model number GLES388DBA. A while back after a loss of power to my

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Old 08-10-2010, 07:56 AM
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Unhappy Electronic Oven control
Model Number: GLES388DBA   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a frigidaire smooth top range model number GLES388DBA. A while back after a loss of power to my home, the ES500 electronic oven control (ECO) went black, none of the oven controls worked. I turned the power off, the ECO stayed black. The ceramic burners on the stove top all work. Figuring that the ECO had died, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The new EOC was black also and none of the controls would work. I verified that I have power to the EOC. Any suggestions as to what to do next?

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:18 AM
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denman is a splendid one to behold

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE GLES388DBA Frigidaire/electric Range | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram

I am assuming that you checked for power at P5-5 to P5-8 and saw 120 volts.

I am sort of guessing on the above as it is not marked as power in for the control board power supply.

I would disconnect all connectors to the control board except P5 and then see if the display will light up.

Only other thing I can think of is that you received a bad board.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:09 AM
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Default No sucess

I checked P5-5 to P5-8 and saw 120 volts. I disconnected all the connectors except P5. The console did not light up.

I contacted a local appliance repair business and paid them to come look at the oven control. The techician said that it was properly installed and that it had power. He surmised that the new board was bad. He stated that to his knowledge board failure is the only possible problem. I contacted the online parts house and they agreed to replace the board. I mailed it back to the parts house.

I received the replacement board today and installed it. The console did not light up.

I rechecked P5-5 to P5-8, had 120v. I checked L1 to L2IN had 220v. I checked L1 to L2OUT had nothing. I checked L2IN to L2OUT had 220v.

I disconnected all connectors except P5. Board remained dark.

I feel that the probability that I would get 2 bad circuit boards is very remote.

I am stumped! Any suggestions?
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:34 AM
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Default Followup

I rigged a way to hook 120v directly to P5 and P8 from a wall outlet. The oven control illuminated. This is true of my orginial and the replacment oven control.

However when it is installed in the range it does not lite up.

There must be some other component failure preventing power to the control board.
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Old 08-24-2010, 04:30 AM
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I am guessing here.
Perhaps the thermal circuit breaker in the temperature probe is open.

They may monitor this and if it sees an open temperature probe it holds the board off.
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:32 PM
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Smile Blind hogs and acorns

Blind luck resolved the probelm. What I did should not have fixed my problem but it did. Here goes.

On my oven control P5-14 and P5-15 connect to the temperature probe and thermal circuit breaker. There was a two wire plug that connected P5-14 and 15 to the temperature probe and circuit breaker. I disconnected the plug tried to jumper P5-14 to P5-15 at the plug. I did not have any alligator clips small enough to used so I rigged two cutoff nails into the plug and jumpered between them. No change.

I was not confident that I had continuity between the nails, so I decided to cut the plug out of the circuit, strip the wires and twist the bare wires together to make the jumper. No change.

Like a dummy, I cut the wires too short to reuse the plug. Not having a replacement plug, I used two cermanic wire nuts to reconnect the wires. When I powered the oven backup the electronic oven control lit up and has been working like a champ ever since.

I checked continuity through the plug. It checked fine. I took the plug to my local appliance repair man, told him the tale and he checked continuity through the plug and said it was OK. He agreed with me that removing the plug from the circuit should have had no affect.

I haven't got a clue as to what was wrong and I have no idea what fixed the problem. I hope my experience helps someone. Thanks all for your support.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:44 AM
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Default P5 Connector

The electrical schematic I am using is numbered 318045090. It can be obtained at parts web site or found in a clear pocket on the back of the range.

Neither of the ribbon connectors is P5. P5 is the the connector with all the wires hooked to it at the top of your drawing. Your picture shows P5 pins 1-10 counting from the right of the photo. P5 pins 1-3 have no wires.

P5-5 and P5-8 are 120v to the electronic oven control (EOC). P5-5 is a white wire, P5-8 is a black wire. If you follow all the wires into the range, you will find a 15 pin plug. Disconnect the plug and using the wire colors determine the location of P5-5 and 8. Using a two wire extension cord, I cut the female end off the cord, striped the wires and then hooked two small alligator clips to the wires. I clipped the clips to P5-5 and 8 and then plugged the male side of the cord into an outlet near the range. In my case, the EOC lit up and started alarming, telling me that that the EOC was OK.

If it turns out that your EOC is bad, I have a replacement that I will send you for its cost plus shipping. I am stuck with the one I ordered, the parts house would not take it back. I hope this helps.
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:41 AM
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Default I am not sure there is a P6 connector.

P6 and P12 are the ribbon wire plugs. Neither are shown on drawing number 318045090. The drawing only shows connectors that are hooked to the stove wiring. Not all of the wiring is shown (wires to p13 for example). P5 is shown because it connects to the 15 pin connector internal to the stove. The stove connector is what is depicted in the pin representation at the middle bottom of the drawing (connector B). It also shows you how to count the pins

P6 and P12 use a press-in ribbon wire holder. The ribbon wire is not glued into the connectors. Grasp both sides of the top of the plug and pull gently up. The top will release and remain in the plug. The ribbon wires will be free to remove. To reconnect, install the wires and push gently down on the top of the plug, it will lock the ribbon wire in.

The EOC internals are not shown on the drawing. The EOC is depicted in the thick blacked lined box on the drawing. There is no schematic for its wiring and internal components that I could find on the internet. I tried to get a schematic of the EOC internals from the manufacturer and was ignored.

Also my oven and your oven must be different. The only P5 pins on my oven that are not wired are 1,2,3, and 9.

Have a nice day.
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