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Dual Infinite Switch Replacement

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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Model number is JES9800aab. The burners are fine. They worked perfectly before I changed the switch. Both dual burner switches

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Old 08-08-2017, 11:32 AM
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Model number is JES9800aab. The burners are fine. They worked perfectly before I changed the switch. Both dual burner switches have a double red wire which daisy chains power from one switch to the next and a single red wire which I assume is the common side of the dual burners. The instruction is rather confusing regarding a compound connection or a split connection which requires splitting the two red wires. I don't know if the're referring to the daisy chained red wires. I didn't split any red wires. The left switch also has a blue wire rather than the yellow wire on the right switch which looks like a burner wire.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2017, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drazlou View Post
Model number is JES9800aab. The burners are fine. They worked perfectly before I changed the switch. Both dual burner switches have a double red wire which daisy chains power from one switch to the next and a single red wire which I assume is the common side of the dual burners. The instruction is rather confusing regarding a compound connection or a split connection which requires splitting the two red wires. I don't know if the're referring to the daisy chained red wires. I didn't split any red wires. The left switch also has a blue wire rather than the yellow wire on the right switch which looks like a burner wire.
Drazlou, The wire colors are a little different on the wiring diagram, so you may need to trace the element wires to the specific element ring, so give this a try :
First install the jumper wire from one P1 terminal and the S1 terminal(it's easier that way).
The Double back wire(L1 comm. to all the burner switches) goes on the other P1 terminal.
The tan-blue wire( to the inner ring of the element) will attach to terminal 4.
The orange-blue wire( to the outer ring of the element) will attach to terminal 4A.
The Black wire (to the indicator light)will attach to the S2 terminal.
The Double red wire(comm. to all the burner switches) will attach to the P2 terminal.
The single red wire(comm. to both element rings)will attach to terminal 2.

(like I mentioned before, you may have to check the blue wire you mentioned, to se which element ring it is attached to and attach it to the appropriate terminal on the new switch. But you should be fine from there.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:07 PM
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JES9800AAB. Elements are fine, they were working perfectly before I replaced the switch.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:14 PM
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That is how I wired both switches. The right switch works fine but the left switch only powers the outer element when on both burners high setting. Also the outer element stays on for a brief period then goes off. It keeps cycling like this. The inner element glows faintly like it's on reduced voltage even on the high setting.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:31 PM
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JES9800AAB. Elements are fine, they were working perfectly before I replaced the switch.
Drazlou, the element isn't in question. The question is, the wire colors, to the element rings/ribbons. The wiring diagram indicates a tan and orange wires to the individual element terminals, you stated you have a blue wire to the element. you'll need to know which element(inner or outer) terminal it attaches to so you can attach the other end to the proper terminal on the new switch (4 or 4A). Once you determine the element terminals, wire the remainder of the terminals according to the previous post, and you'll be fine.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drazlou View Post
That is how I wired both switches. The right switch works fine but the left switch only powers the outer element when on both burners high setting. Also the outer element stays on for a brief period then goes off. It keeps cycling like this. The inner element glows faintly like it's on reduced voltage even on the high setting.
Dazlou, If you're sure the new switch is wired correctly, and there's no visible damage to the element rings/ribbons, Then the Part number: AP4008679

Part number: AP4008679
is damaged internally and will need to be replaced, again.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:41 PM
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There is tan, orange and yellow on the right switch and tan, orange and blue on the left switch. I have orange to 2, tan and yellow to 4 and 4a on the right switch and orange to 2, tan and blue to 4 and 4a on the left.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:44 PM
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If I can bring myself to take it apart again I'll swap the two switches and see what happens. So my problem is not that I haven't split any double red wires?
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by drazlou View Post
If I can bring myself to take it apart again I'll swap the two switches and see what happens. So my problem is not that I haven't split any double red wires?
Drazlou, No, splitting the double staked red wires on you model isn't necessary. The single red wire to terminal 2 is sufficient to operate the "common " L2 power out to the element. We wouldn't recommend you remove or "swap" switches, just to check the operation. You'd want to recheck the wiring locations on the new switch, also trace the blue wire to the terminal point on the element and make sure you attach it to the proper terminal on the new switch (use the previous wiring information we sent, and the attached wiring diagram to trace and verify the wiring). If the issue persists then replace the infinite switch again.
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File Type: pdf Tech Sheet - 16025924.pdf (955.7 KB, 3 views)
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Old 08-09-2017, 11:53 AM
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OK. Thanks for the help and the schematic. I'll give it a try and let you know.
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