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Model Number: JVM1460BA01 Brand: GE Age: 5 - 10 years
First post here.
I've spent nearly 30 hours taking this unit apart, measuring key H.V. components (diode, magnetron, capacitor), door switches, thermostats, and flame sensors. Checked for loose wiring/connectors, bad fuses, and broken wires inside their PVC or cloth insulation jackets. Performed Key Panel, Smart Board, and Sensor tests; but I still cannot locate the reason(s) why it's not heating. Both the H.V. cap and diode have been replaced even though the originals tested out ok. Utility supply was measured at 119.3VAC The H.V. tranny tested out with the following results: Primary winding: .4Ω Secondary winding: 68.5Ω (schematic shows nominal as 79Ω) This was measured from the white wire on the tranny to ground. Filament winding: 0Ω Primary winding to ground: Infinite Filament winding to ground: Infinite The Magnetron tested out with the following results: Resistance between the two filament terminals: .1Ω Resistance from filament to Magnetron chassis: Infinite Now, I don't have a meter that will accurately measure resistance (milli-ohms) in the windings; but the schematic lists them as 430mΩ on the primary and 100mΩ on one of the secondary legs. Anyone have some ideas??? I'm completely stumped on this one. Thanks, FalconEddy |
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I also measured amperage during operation. No surprise that it was only between 3.5A to 4.5A. Next step(s)? At this point I'm tempted to change out the magnetron (I have a replacement here) just to see if I was getting false 'good' readings when I tested it. But, that still doesn't explain the low current draw. . . does it? . . Falcon |
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Sorry if I wasn't clear enough about that in my first reply. Voltage was measured both on the wiring at the smartboard relay, and the primary terminals where the wires make the connection. I've already measured all pertinent wiring from end to end without being connected to ensure there were no open conditions. . . Falcon |
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I've also got a vintage Simpson meter (non-digital) around here somewhere, but haven't been able to locate it. Hopefully, my wife didn't take it to the Goodwill store with my o-scope that only needed a new probe. ![]() As I initially mentioned, note that I have used one of the new replacement HV diodes with the same results; as well as a new HV cap. . . Falcon |
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You can check those 4000 series diodes with just about anything. You need a meter that’s running at least a 9 volt battery to get anything out those HV diodes. Quote:
away from you. A new one is about 250 -300 bucks. You would be able to check the HV diodes with that one. you would just need to set it on R times 10,000. If you locate it -hang on to it. I still have mine and I still use it quite a bit. Quote:
getting 120VAC at the primary of the transformer, about the only two things left would be 1. the transformer is not putting out HV (bad secondary) or 2. the mag is bad. Based on youre earlier post I suspect the latter of the two. Last edited by glen65 : 05-10-2008 at 07:53 PM. |
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According to all tests performed and their results it looks to me that the first failure suspect is the magnetron.
Gene.
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Professional appliance repair services in Orange County, California. |
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![]() If not, I could whip up a 15v HV diode analyzer early next week with my variac and a couple of other component parts. But, seeing as how I've already got the mag, I may as well just install it (and reuse the t-stat on the original). The worst that could happen is that it still won't heat. It may actually be the HV tranny since there's not really a loud noise coming from it. It has that 'bad transformer hum' sound during operation. But, the mag is the most likely candidate. Mother's day tomorrow, so I won't get around to it until Monday at this point. I'll let you know after I change out the mag. Thanks, . . Falcon Last edited by FalconEddy : 05-10-2008 at 08:16 PM. |
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