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mthierfelder  
#11 Posted : Friday, April 4, 2008 7:04:34 PM(UTC)
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mthierfelder

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Just one of those thermal fuses, checked it and it has continuity.
Gene  
#12 Posted : Friday, April 4, 2008 7:17:47 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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If you can post the wiring diagram - it might help.

Gene.
mthierfelder  
#13 Posted : Saturday, April 5, 2008 1:05:44 PM(UTC)
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Ok, I'll post it later today or tomorrow as soon as I can get a picture of it scanned in.

I noticed there was a diagnostic on the sheet of paper inside the case for a "sensor", I followed the instructions and the test came back negative. There was no continuity between any of the 3 wires that come out of it. Does that mean that's the culprit?
mthierfelder  
#14 Posted : Saturday, April 5, 2008 1:14:17 PM(UTC)
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mthierfelder

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Gene - here's the wiring diagram, hope this helps.
File Attachment(s):
microwave_diag2.pdf (61kb) downloaded 16 time(s).
mthierfelder  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, April 9, 2008 9:54:40 AM(UTC)
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mthierfelder

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Any thoughts on what it might be Gene?
glen65  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, April 9, 2008 10:13:27 AM(UTC)
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glen65

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Originally Posted by: mthierfelder Go to Quoted Post
Ok, I'll post it later today or tomorrow as soon as I can get a picture of it scanned in.

I noticed there was a diagnostic on the sheet of paper inside the case for a "sensor", I followed the instructions and the test came back negative. There was no continuity between any of the 3 wires that come out of it. Does that mean that's the culprit?


On the diagram you'll notice that there is a noise filter
assembly that the power cord is connected to. Check
to make sure you have 120 volts AC going into it
(from the power cord) and that you get the same voltage coming
out at the other end of it where the white and black wires
are connected to it.

If you have voltage on both ends then
check for 120 volts between the the black wire off of the
noise filter and the thermostat on the side of the magnetron.
You should have voltage between the black wire off of the filter
and both sides of the thermostat. Give this a shot and let us
know what you find.

Hope this helps.
mthierfelder  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, April 9, 2008 11:14:33 AM(UTC)
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mthierfelder

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Glen - you're a genius!

It seems that the miracle workers at Kenmore put it together wrong, the white lead coming off the power cord was jammed into the connector so it was just hanging there. I guess it takes about a year for arcing to build up enough corrosion for it to fail.

I pulled it off and put it on the right way, and it works!

Thanks again! you made my day.
Cinderoo  
#18 Posted : Sunday, June 1, 2008 2:42:27 AM(UTC)
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Cinderoo

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Oh Jeez, Same thing happened with my microwave, and I cannot believe that the fuses aren't more accessible. Do you actually mean that I have to take the entire unit off of the cabinet just to check the fuse? I've got a whirlpool MH7110XBB2 - and not a clue what I am doing! Any help appreciated. Stopped in the middle of a popcorn cook....no lights, nothing. Plug works on other stuff....but microwave is entirely dead.
Gene  
#19 Posted : Wednesday, June 4, 2008 3:12:11 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Cinderoo,

According to the tech sheet there is one in-line fuse (#5 on the break down diagram), which is located behind the control panel, and two thermal fuses - the magnetron thermal protector (# 2 on the magnetron break down diagram) and the cavity thermal protector (#5 on the magnetron break down diagram).

To access both thermal fuses (protectors) the microwave has to be removed from the cabinet.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool microwave Model MH7110XBB2

Gene.
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