[Matt S]

I am having the same problem with the identical microwave for a customer of mine. He replaced the motor on his own, but that did not fix the problem. So, he called me. I replaced the control board and the same problem is still there.

All door switches test good, all thermals are good. I have 120 volts to the HV transformer, but no neutral.

This microwave also has no wiring schematic. I am stuck. In 26 years of repairing microwaves, this ranks up there as one of the most frustrating problems I have seen.

I would suggest NOT replacing the control board just yet.

I am dead in the water on this one.

[johnds]

Originally Posted by Matt S

I am having the same problem with the identical microwave for a customer of mine. He replaced the motor on his own, but that did not fix the problem. So, he called me. I replaced the control board and the same problem is still there.

All door switches test good, all thermals are good. I have 120 volts to the HV transformer, but no neutral.

This microwave also has no wiring schematic. I am stuck. In 26 years of repairing microwaves, this ranks up there as one of the most frustrating problems I have seen.

I would suggest NOT replacing the control board just yet.

I am dead in the water on this one.

OK....here is what I found out and how I fixed my microwave. As you may recall the problem was intermittant. After being told it was the motor and after changing the $60 motor I found out the motor was not the problem. I was ready to do the control board, but at $200 or so I decidied to give things some more thought. The first thing I checked were all 3 door switched. All three checked ok. Could only be the control panel, right? Wrong. Remember the problem was intermittant and I was told to go back and check the door switched one more time. The guy even told me which one. Sure enough, when I checked the swith for the 5th time, it was bad. A $6 switch and I was back in business. It was the bottom swith I think.

Best to all,
Johnds

[Matt S]

Thanks John!

Man, I sure hope that is it on this microwave.

Cheers!

Matt

[johnds]

Hello and thank you for writing.
I hadn't yet tried to cross the Dacor DCM24S to its equivalent Sharp model
yet, but it looks like it's the Sharp R930AK/AW. And as luck would have it, we
have that full service manual online at
all Microwave Display Repair Sharp Dacor GE General Electric
Checking the schematic, your symptoms almost certainly indicate a defective
secondary interlock switch (the bottom one) or its mount (door hook) may be
loose or have a broken tab. You'd also need to be sure that the lower door
latch head (the hooklike device on the door) is activating the lower switch
when the door closes.
It may be subtle, but I honestly feel it's a problem with the lower switch or
associated wiring.
I would call your attention to the following pages in the service manual: 11,
15, 26, 27, 31, 33.
Bear in mind that the oven will not operate with the cover off unless you
activate the outer case switch. See page 11.
If it's a bad door switch, and your can't find one at a local appliance parts
store, home improvement store (Lowe's or Home Depot, etc.) or Wal-Mart, you
can get them from Tritronics at Consumer Electronics Parts and Accessories: Tritronics, Inc.
If it's not a door switch, feel free to let me know what you find. Happy to
help.
William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net † all Microwave Display Repair Sharp Dacor GE General Electric
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