[SchnabelJS11]

I have a GE Profile JE2160 cabinet mounted microwave. All functions on the touchpad work, and I do hear a small click when I press start, but the fan does not come on, the turntable does not turn, the lightbulb does not turn on. When I press the start button, it does sound like a relay is trying to click on, but never does. The count down timer works and begins the countdown sequence, but nothing else turns on. What's up?

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

You will need the multimeter to run the continuity test.
Unplug the unit, remove the outer cover. Locate the door switches. With one wire off the switch check the continuity with door open and closed.
If the switch is bad replace it (you will have to remove the bracket and then the switch Part number: WB24X823

If the switches passed the test - then it's the control board.

The control board Part number: WB27X10688

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Microwave replacement parts for General Electric JE2160SF001 Counter top microwave | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.

[SchnabelJS11]

Okay, I tested everything and nothing seemed to be a problem. I removed all the door switches (4 total) and they "appeared" to all work as intended. I used an ohm meter and tested each switch one by one. Some were normally open, some normally closed. I tested the capacitor (this model has a capacitor leak attached to the chassis, so it seems to dissipate the capacitor after about 20 minutes or so, but the capacitor checked out okay). I ohm'd the fuse for the main power input and it was okay. Scratching my head.

Then by pure accident I was playing around with the door switch and the microwave started to work. Every time I put a flat blade screwdriver into the nylon (white) fulcrum that the door push button was driving, the microwave would turn on, but if I pushed to far, or too little it would turn off.

After some playing around I realized the two lower switches and the middle switch were not being affected by my movement of the door latches. Only the top switch was being affected. I pulled out the top switch (had to remove the screws that hold the plastic assembly that houses all the switches) and tried to depress it. The microwave would come on just fine, lamp is on, and water in the microwave is heated. BUT, if I pressed the limit switch ALL THE WAY DOWN, the microwave would stop working. Seems the limit switch had gone bad, but only partially.

All the way open (not depressed) microwave doesn't work, all the way depressed, it also doesn't work. But from partially depressed to almost fully depressed, the microwave works fine. Switch cost me about $9 at the Oak Hill Appliance store (near Dripping Springs) and everything works fine.

What a relief. Don't have to replace a $300 microwave, and the $250 trim kit to go with it.

[SchnabelJS11]

I clicked on the link in your store tech's reply to my first post. The link I was sent to looks like the right part, but it can't possibly cost $48 for a door limit switch. You must have something screwed up in your product database. The part locally costs just $9, so I bought it from a local store. Would have probably used your store instead, but somethings wrong with your price database.

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

I'm very glad that you where able to fix the problem.

About the price of the switch. The OEM part by GE witch we listed is $48, the one you got is after market.

Thank you.

Simon.