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replace torsion spring in micro door

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Hi Ted, Unfortunately I have tried these steps before and used a plastic tie in the middle where they cross

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Old 06-12-2012, 06:06 PM
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Hi Ted,

Unfortunately I have tried these steps before and used a plastic tie in the middle where they cross but that did not make a difference.

I appreciate your taking the time to respond. I am not sure if you saw my part about the right side of the right spring not aligning correctly and overlapping with the hinge by about half an inch.

I have to use pliers and a mallet to get the right spring in place. I doubt that is how the manufacturer has designed it to be inserted. That tells me that this batch of right side springs have a problem in them(the left side goes in without a hitch).

Is the right side spring not meant to align correctly with the hole(on the left) and the hook on the right resting on the hinge? Am I supposed to use a plier and a mallet to hammer it in? Also can you look at the images that I have in my previous email and comment on how the right hand spring is resting on the hinge(is that how it should be) when the left side is aligned with the hole?
I don't think I have missed any step(really there is no step that you can miss ) Otherwise you would be way off. However I think you will be able to tell by looking at the photos(videos that I have posted before) if there is anything wrong with how I have the spring insert.

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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 01:20 PM
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Hi. The reason for the tie wrap is so in the future if the spring breaks it will not shatter the front glass. And yes, I did see your good pictures and the supplied video. I too agree that the rt. side hinge/springs should exactly mimic the lt. side hinge as you show in the piuctures. In a new model service manual, it shows a side view of a spring coming over to the top of the front hinge and then the end hook is placed in the middle hole above the hinge pivot poinrt. Now take in mind that the service manual is not from your model. It is extremely rare that a service manual discusses microwave door issues. No- you should not use a mallot to hammer these torsion springs in. WPL has a video that is currently misplaced since they updated a service matters area where information is stored. They are working on this issue to find it. Did you read all the pages of this issue on this site? See page 1 and 2 to read sucessful steps of replacement on theses springs. Wpl. Tech line verified you are getting the correct parts. They also said that you use correct parts listed on the correct outer door panel type. So the myth of the stainless panel torsion springs for all types are incorrect. We have given you all the current information we can get. Best wishes. If you can supply me a email address I will send the similar manual I previously talked about. Thank You.









Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywalker1981 View Post
Hi Ted,

Unfortunately I have tried these steps before and used a plastic tie in the middle where they cross but that did not make a difference.

I appreciate your taking the time to respond. I am not sure if you saw my part about the right side of the right spring not aligning correctly and overlapping with the hinge by about half an inch.

I have to use pliers and a mallet to get the right spring in place. I doubt that is how the manufacturer has designed it to be inserted. That tells me that this batch of right side springs have a problem in them(the left side goes in without a hitch).

Is the right side spring not meant to align correctly with the hole(on the left) and the hook on the right resting on the hinge? Am I supposed to use a plier and a mallet to hammer it in? Also can you look at the images that I have in my previous email and comment on how the right hand spring is resting on the hinge(is that how it should be) when the left side is aligned with the hole?
I don't think I have missed any step(really there is no step that you can miss ) Otherwise you would be way off. However I think you will be able to tell by looking at the photos(videos that I have posted before) if there is anything wrong with how I have the spring insert.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:24 PM
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At this time I think both of us agree that the problem is with the part. Earlier you said I could have received a part from the old batch. How do I verify if its from the old batch or not?

I have read and reread all 8 pages of this thread atleast 10 times. So I am pretty sure I con't have missed anything. Once you have the springs visible, removing the old ones and inserting the new ones is pretty straight forward. I can't think of a way that you could insert the spring in its place any other way.

In any event, it won't hurt to see the video(once WPL recovers it) and the manual you are referring to. Please email it to: omersm at gmail dot com

Do you know how long ago WPL lost that video. I seem to remember that its been lost for a few years now. So its possible they might not have any plans of bringing it back.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:15 AM
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Hi. Check your email for the response needed. Thank You.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgtduckyboy View Post
Thanks Gene. I wasnt saying I had to use 2 identical springs. I was saying the comments at the beginning of this thread are unclear and seem to be saying to use 2 of the 1009 models... and others who have 2 said they cant get two to work on their model... and ours is not stainless steel but is brushed aluminum. magnets dont stick to it. so that is why I am confused. our door is lighter than the steel, so I dont want a stronger spring unless it prolongs the mean time between failures. with that information, which 2 do i order?? thanks
Magnets don't stick to good stainless steel...your oven is the stainless model.
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