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Robertshaw gas valve question (bad regulator?)

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I have a Robertshaw 711-701-404 (which I understand i can purchase a complete replacement of part number: AP3152287, model 710-502).

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Old 06-10-2008, 09:25 AM
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Default Robertshaw gas valve question (bad regulator?)
Model Number: 711-701-404   Brand: -other-   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a Robertshaw 711-701-404 (which I understand i can purchase a complete replacement of part number: AP3152287, model 710-502). However, I did some troubleshooting and was wondering if someone can help me verify my findings. I have attached a picture of the complete product as well as the regulator. It has lead me to believe that I may only need to replace the regulator. As you can see on the picture, I have removed the regulator and used a multimeter to measure the continuity of the black wire to the chasis. The black wire is always shorted to the chasis regardless if I press or release the spring switch. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? if not, what is the replacement part of this regulator? or will I need to purchase the complete 710-502? Thanks!







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Old 06-10-2008, 10:37 AM
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Default That aint the regulator

That is the safety magnet. When the pilot generator is lit and you depress the knob this safety magnet remains open (as long as the millivolts from the generator are sufficient to hold it)to allow for the gas to go out and ignite the burner. Up topside of this bad puppy is a red plastic piece that connects to the operator (below it)Right behind that red plastic is the regulator(on top).
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:49 AM
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Default Testing the magnet

This system is great because no outside power is needed to move the operator. A simple 2 wire thermostat that opens and closes at various temperatures as specified by the usage is all that is needed. To bench test this puppy all you need to do is use a jumper wire to open and close the valve. The power is derived from the 750 millivolt pilot generator. So to test it you put it all back together(by the way they don't allow techs to replace parts on gas valves anymore) Hook up the pilot generator like it was. and heat it with a torch while pressing the knob.Next move the knob to the "ON" position. Then instead of using your 2 wires from the thermostat just use a jumper wire to see if the operator opens the valve. If the safety is working and the operator is working(you should hear it click) you should be able to blow through the valve with no problem. That is how you bench test it.

Last edited by SublimeMasterJW : 06-10-2008 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 06-10-2008, 11:13 AM
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Default Let's take a look at this robertshaw diagram shall we

Take a look here:A Millivolt schematic.gifSince the black wire goes over to the safety magnet and their are no other wires attached then the coil inside would have to have continuity to hold or it would be bad would it not? That middle screw is bolted to chasis and feeds back to the thermophile. That is what powers the magnet. Note: sometimes that black wire gets cut in 2 and has a high limit added there between the operator and the safety, for a deep fat fryer so that if the oil gets above 550F then the limit kills the power to the safety before the fish house burns down. LOL! Sometimes they add a high limit fuse under the burner on a floor furnace there. Where was I? Oh yeah to bench test the valve you need the Thermopile(Millivolt Generator) and the gas valve (in tact) hook up the pilot generator wires as pictured and press the knob while it is positioned at the "PILOT" mark. Heat up the generator with a torch and press the knob downwards. When the generator heats up then the springloaded electromagnetic coil should stay put. Move the gas valve knob to the "ON" position. Quickly jumper the valve and blow through it to see if it is working. Note: Nothing can be repaired on this valve if it is defective it must be replaced.

Last edited by SublimeMasterJW : 06-10-2008 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 06-11-2008, 09:45 AM
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Default

thanks for your help. I will try your suggestion below when I have a chance this weekend!

Fong
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