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LG 18,000 BTU Window/Wall AC

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Hello all, wondering if there are any "new-fangled" electronic controlled window-unit savvy folks here. We have several of these monsters

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2009, 10:36 AM
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Default LG 18,000 BTU Window/Wall AC
Model Number: LWHD1800R   Brand: -other-   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello all, wondering if there are any "new-fangled" electronic controlled window-unit savvy folks here. We have several of these monsters mounted in-wall...some a few years older than others, all bought at home depot. The first few were branded "Hampton Bay" and the latest are "LG"...same machines, as far as looks...they've just made them cheaper and cheaper as it goes on. Not all that impressed with the "new, lighter, cheaper" stuff at all...they seem to break a LOT more than the good old window units of yore. Here's a link to the basic model:

LG LWHD1800R WINDOW ROOM AIR CONDITIONER 18,000 BTU

The latest one is less than two years old, and the compressor just suddenly stopped coming on. We'd finally been able to turn it off for a few days, and then needed it yesterday. The fan comes on, all the lights/controls seem to function, just nada when the compressor is supposed to kick on.

Now, in the old days, I'd just test the rotary switch and the thermostat, and maybe the run capacitor. Now with all the computer boards instead of actual controls, I am wondering what the first logical troubleshooting step would be. I can swap parts from a spare machine if I know what to swap.

I have already switched out that flimsy wire thing that on an old AC would be the thermostat bulb and line. That didn't do anything. The metal can capacitor looks fine, but could it be burnt and still look good? I have no clue about any of the electronic stuff, so any help would be...well...helpful!

Many thanks in advance.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 04:37 PM
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Beebs you really cannot tell SOMETIMES if a cap is whack.
I would seriously look at the compressor overload and the 3 wires connect to dat pump. The old corrosion thang.
Take a look at the capacitor. If it is swollen, rusty, puffed up on top, or leaking it is bad. Sometimes you cannot tell by looking at it so you bench test it. Using a suicide cord attach the alergator clips to the capacitor terminals, Place the cap where if it explodes, it's remains won't get on you. Yes virginia, I have had one blow up in my face.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:40 PM
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TIP: (check to see if the terminals on the capacitor are shorted to avoid any minor explosions.) Plug the cord into a 120 volt outlet for 3 seconds. This charges the cap. Tap the cheater cord prongs on an iron surface to discharge it. If it makes a snap or popping sound it is good. If it does not hold a charge it is bad. Another way is to check it with an analog meter. Set the meter on the most sensitive continuity setting (ohms). Be sure the capacitor is discharged so the meter won't be fried. Touch the leads to the discharged cap. The needle on the meter should hop; reverse the leads and retry; it should hop again. That is an indication of a cap that will hold a charge. If the needle never moves of course that is a sign the cap is bad(open). Also if the needle goes all the way over and stays, that is an indication the cap is shorted and therefore bad. The cap is designed to boost the power to the motor to get it going with multiple windings being powered up at once. As soon as the motor reaches running speed the cap drops out of the circuit and then it only takes half the power for the motor to continue running at optimum speed. This saves energy.
FYI: The old style shaded pole motors had no capacitor and so they used twice the power to do the same job. The capacitor holds a voltage charge that will bite your ass, when power is applied to the motor that momentary charged capacitor gives dat motor a kick in the asz to git it goin.


Last edited by SublimeMasterJW : 10-30-2009 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:52 PM
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LG is the new name of GOLDSTAR. Need I splain anythang further my nizzle?
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:51 PM
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Dang I just had a major trip, I am just like one of them capacitor, I am needed to get the thang goin but once that is fixed I am history.
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:59 PM
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Many thanks for the info! I haven't had a chance to dig back into it yet, and we've actually had a spell of *nice* weather where we haven't needed it. After the brutal summer we had, it's actually nice to NOT hear one of those big beasts running at all!

I will check out the overload connects and look at the cap first thing when I get back at it. Hopefully it'll be something like that instead of one of those computer boards that's in there. They seem to have shrunk the cap into a silver cylinder (kinda like the ones on an old tube amp), and it's now mounted in the little "control box" with the computer boards.

Ah, the life of a Dinosaur...
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:56 PM
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beebs you could replace all that electronic stuff with analog selector switch and old type thermostat. not hard to do. if intrested, give me a call and I'll 'splain it to you. 662-542-5161
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