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My Cuisinart DCC coffee maker has quit working. The clock works...the automatic brew time can be set, and the button

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Old 02-07-2008, 07:34 PM
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Default Cuisinart DCC 2000 coffee maker

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My Cuisinart DCC coffee maker has quit working. The clock works...the automatic brew time can be set, and the button labled "1-4" lights up. Nothing else lights up nor does it brew coffee. Any ideas anyone?
Thanks,
Gary

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Old 06-04-2008, 07:48 AM
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My Cuisinart coffee maker leaks all the water out before making coffee
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Old 06-04-2008, 07:50 AM
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My Cruisinart coffeemaker leaks all the water out before it can make coffee
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:37 AM
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Maybe you should check the hose. The problem is you can not remove the bottom without a special tool and the hose is unavailable. I am curious how EA6BDVR removed the bottom and then found the hose. I wound up braking the bottom of my coffee maker with the intent of gluing it but then could not find the hose.

I have a quick search and I found this good article in repairing coffee maker: [URL="http://home.howstuffworks.com/coffee-maker4.htm"]HowStuffWorks "Drip Coffee Maker Problems"[/URL]
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Old 11-28-2008, 04:16 PM
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The problem may be caused not by a hose per se but by a check valve in the inlet hose. This little gadget, about an inch inside the heater end of the tube, allows water to flow into the heating element but not back -- unless it's broken. This hose is the one closest to the outside edge of the bottom.

I'm sure *someone* must sell a replacement part, and I'm in the middle of that search. But I did get an older, broken coffeemaker from my brother (another member of "the Slow Wastebasket" society!

I was able to disassemble my Model CBC-00PC2 using a standard Torx 10 screwdriver. However when I tried to take apart an older model, DCC-1200, I found that it used the security version of the Torx 10 screw: it has a tiny nipple (correct word?) in the center of the screwhead that prevents a standard Torx driver to fit. I was unable to find the correct screwdriver and a security Torx bit is too thick to fit, so my brother and I resorted to brute strength to pop of the bottom.

The only other problem I had was that the older hose was a bit brittle and both the older and newer ones had sort of welded themselves to the aluminum heater element tube. Luckily, there was enough extra length and I was able to make it fit -- barely! I lost one of the little metal clips so substituted a tiny cable tie.

Everything seems to work. Oh, the only reason I knew about the check valve is that I previously disassembled the thing to see what was wrong and I found something (probably a piece of the valve!) floating around.

Hope this helps.
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