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		<title>Appliance Repair Forum - Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</title>
		<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com</link>
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		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:09:25 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Appliance Repair Forum - Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com</link>
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			<title>jenn-air element wiring</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/59812-jenn-air-element-wiring.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:08:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I recieved the new element, on the old one there was only 1 place to put the hot wire. on the new one there are 3. 2 on one side and 1 on the other. the old one had a wire jumper, the new one a solid jumper. where do I put the hot wire?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recieved the new element, on the old one there was only 1 place to put the hot wire. on the new one there are 3. 2 on one side and 1 on the other. the old one had a wire jumper, the new one a solid jumper. where do I put the hot wire?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>breonw@bellsouth.net</dc:creator>
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			<title>Amana Furnace Stops working produces oil/electic smell</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/59383-amana-furnace-stops-working-produces-oil-electic-smell.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:47:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We have Amana 80, an older model (20+ years likely) furnace (in the basement). My wife told me it is was not working right -making some noise (like trying hrad- humming) during the day . I smelled a burnt oil/cable smell. I checked the rooms for a fire and found nothing but realized it was coming from the vents. I checked the furnace. It will ignite and burn the gas for 2-3 min and stop. It will continue humming and try again... As it tries (humming) further it sends the smell to the two rooms (not all of the house).
 
What do you think it may be?
Some reading says it may be the on/off capacitor for the fan
Some says the motor on h fan may be gone
Any comments?
Thanks
Toni</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We have Amana 80, an older model (20+ years likely) furnace (in the basement). My wife told me it is was not working right -making some noise (like trying hrad- humming) during the day . I smelled a burnt oil/cable smell. I checked the rooms for a fire and found nothing but realized it was coming from the vents. I checked the furnace. It will ignite and burn the gas for 2-3 min and stop. It will continue humming and try again... As it tries (humming) further it sends the smell to the two rooms (not all of the house).<br />
 <br />
What do you think it may be?<br />
Some reading says it may be the on/off capacitor for the fan<br />
Some says the motor on h fan may be gone<br />
Any comments?<br />
Thanks<br />
Toni</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>hamsi067</dc:creator>
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			<title>Stove vent motor problem</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/58527-stove-vent-motor-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:59:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>This cooktop vent has always been quite loud. Now at a low speed setting it makes a high pitch buzzing noise. As you increase the speed a bit the buzzing stops, but I can hear a small rattle (like maybe a small plastic part is flying around in the impeller cage).

My question is whether I need a new motor or whether there is some other electronic part that is responsible for the buzzing. Also, is the fan supposed to be quite loud for this type of oven vent? Any help would be appreciated.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This cooktop vent has always been quite loud. Now at a low speed setting it makes a high pitch buzzing noise. As you increase the speed a bit the buzzing stops, but I can hear a small rattle (like maybe a small plastic part is flying around in the impeller cage).<br />
<br />
My question is whether I need a new motor or whether there is some other electronic part that is responsible for the buzzing. Also, is the fan supposed to be quite loud for this type of oven vent? Any help would be appreciated.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>Pack67dad</dc:creator>
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			<title>Water Heater help needed</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/57940-water-heater-help-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 02:23:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, guys,  You helped me with a Samsung side by side a year ago. Hope you can help me with a Bradford White, I think it is, electric water heater.  50 gallon, dual element, dual thermostat. Keeps popping the breaker on the upper/main thermostat. I replaced that.  I checked resistance of the upper element for both continuity, wire to wire, and short to element sheath and heater housing.  Didn't check the lower element, will have to tomorrow, since the kids told me last night that it is still popping.  Now I am assuming that that reset is an electrical breaker, correct? It is not related to the snap disks. Those are thermal switches, so if I have tripping trouble, I must have an electrical problem. The double 30 breaker in the panel does not trip.  Ah, well, maybe tomorrow will tell the tale.  Cheers,  George]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, guys,  You helped me with a Samsung side by side a year ago. Hope you can help me with a Bradford White, I think it is, electric water heater.  50 gallon, dual element, dual thermostat. Keeps popping the breaker on the upper/main thermostat. I replaced that.  I checked resistance of the upper element for both continuity, wire to wire, and short to element sheath and heater housing.  Didn't check the lower element, will have to tomorrow, since the kids told me last night that it is still popping.  Now I am assuming that that reset is an electrical breaker, correct? It is not related to the snap disks. Those are thermal switches, so if I have tripping trouble, I must have an electrical problem. The double 30 breaker in the panel does not trip.  Ah, well, maybe tomorrow will tell the tale.  Cheers,  George</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>gmatov</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/57940-water-heater-help-needed.html</guid>
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			<title>Heater not working</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/57572-heater-not-working.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 23:25:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone, maybe someone can help me figure out what to look for. I have an outdoor Heat/AC unit, it is one big unit. The heater uses gas. The A/C works fine with no problems at all. But the heater will not come on. I can turn on the heat, and turn the Fan on, and it will blow, but cool air. I have followed the instructions as far as turning the ignition switch on. When I turn the heater on with the thermostat inside, I can hear a little motor running outside, but nothing happens, and after about 2-3 minutes, it shuts off. I'm not sure what to check for, anyone else have this problem before?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey everyone, maybe someone can help me figure out what to look for. I have an outdoor Heat/AC unit, it is one big unit. The heater uses gas. The A/C works fine with no problems at all. But the heater will not come on. I can turn on the heat, and turn the Fan on, and it will blow, but cool air. I have followed the instructions as far as turning the ignition switch on. When I turn the heater on with the thermostat inside, I can hear a little motor running outside, but nothing happens, and after about 2-3 minutes, it shuts off. I'm not sure what to check for, anyone else have this problem before?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>boomgagem</dc:creator>
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			<title>Wiring Diagram needed</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/57453-wiring-diagram-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 08:49:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Have a Sears electric heater, need wiring diagram. Can anyone help? Thanks kd.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Have a Sears electric heater, need wiring diagram. Can anyone help? Thanks kd.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>Kim Duleff</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/57453-wiring-diagram-needed.html</guid>
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			<title>Frigidaire Window A/C</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56977-frigidaire-window-c.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 18:24:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[When I plug in the unit, nothing happens.  No lights, no noise.  The green light on the plug indicates I have power at the plug.  I suspect a power surge may have damaged the control board.  I have power up to the control board, but don't know how to test the board.  Dont' really want to start replacing parts until I have a good idea as to what the problem is.  Is there a way to test the control board?  Should I go ahead and replace?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When I plug in the unit, nothing happens.  No lights, no noise.  The green light on the plug indicates I have power at the plug.  I suspect a power surge may have damaged the control board.  I have power up to the control board, but don't know how to test the board.  Dont' really want to start replacing parts until I have a good idea as to what the problem is.  Is there a way to test the control board?  Should I go ahead and replace?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>b2jwh</dc:creator>
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			<title>Gas Valve On Lennox Hvac...bad???</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56946-gas-valve-lennox-hvac-bad.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Nov 2009 14:19:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>LENNOX HVAC GAS VALVE MIGHT BE BAD. NOT SURE, OHM TESTED VALVE AND IT WAS 2.03Mohms. GETTING 28.43V WHEN SURELIGHT CIRCUIT BOARD SWITCHES IT ON BUT IT KICKS BACK OFF ALMOST IMMEDIATELY WHEN VALVE IS CONNECTED. VALVE IS A HONEYWELL MODEL# 60M1601, SERIAL# VR8205S2262. ANY HELP OR INSIGHT ON THE ISSUE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>LENNOX HVAC GAS VALVE MIGHT BE BAD. NOT SURE, OHM TESTED VALVE AND IT WAS 2.03Mohms. GETTING 28.43V WHEN SURELIGHT CIRCUIT BOARD SWITCHES IT ON BUT IT KICKS BACK OFF ALMOST IMMEDIATELY WHEN VALVE IS CONNECTED. VALVE IS A HONEYWELL MODEL# 60M1601, SERIAL# VR8205S2262. ANY HELP OR INSIGHT ON THE ISSUE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>F1RUETER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56946-gas-valve-lennox-hvac-bad.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>BUCK Propane fireplace pilot light</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56619-buck-propane-fireplace-pilot-light.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:06:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The unit is a BUCK Stove propane vent free...it works fine but recently, the pilot light grew from about a quarter of an inch to around a full inch or more...Looking at the unit, it isn't obvious how or what to replace...
Any info would help...

Thank you
1

Nick]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The unit is a BUCK Stove propane vent free...it works fine but recently, the pilot light grew from about a quarter of an inch to around a full inch or more...Looking at the unit, it isn't obvious how or what to replace...<br />
Any info would help...<br />
<br />
Thank you<br />
1<br />
<br />
Nick</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>ncord51</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56619-buck-propane-fireplace-pilot-light.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>LG 18,000 BTU Window/Wall AC</title>
			<link>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/56225-lg-18-000-btu-window-wall-ac.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:36:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, wondering if there are any "new-fangled" electronic controlled window-unit savvy folks here.   We have several of these monsters mounted in-wall...some a few years older than others, all bought at home depot.  The first few were branded "Hampton Bay" and the latest are "LG"...same machines, as far as looks...they've just made them cheaper and cheaper as it goes on.  Not all that impressed with the "new, lighter, cheaper" stuff at all...they seem to break a LOT more than the good old window units of yore.  Here's a link to the basic model:

LG LWHD1800R WINDOW ROOM AIR CONDITIONER 18,000 BTU (http://www.shop.coolrunninghs.com/LG-LWHD1800R-WINDOW-ROOM-AIR-CONDITIONER-18000-BTU-LWHD1800R.htm)

The latest one is less than two years old, and the compressor just suddenly stopped coming on.  We'd finally been able to turn it off for a few days, and then needed it yesterday.  The fan comes on, all the lights/controls seem to function, just nada when the compressor is supposed to kick on.  

Now, in the old days, I'd just test the rotary switch and the thermostat, and maybe the run capacitor.  Now with all the computer boards instead of actual controls, I am wondering what the first logical troubleshooting step would be.  I can swap parts from a spare machine if I know what to swap. 

I have already switched out that flimsy wire thing that on an old AC would be the thermostat bulb and line.  That didn't do anything.  The metal can capacitor looks fine, but could it be burnt and still look good?  I have no clue about any of the electronic stuff, so any help would be...well...helpful!

Many thanks in advance.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all, wondering if there are any &quot;new-fangled&quot; electronic controlled window-unit savvy folks here.   We have several of these monsters mounted in-wall...some a few years older than others, all bought at home depot.  The first few were branded &quot;Hampton Bay&quot; and the latest are &quot;LG&quot;...same machines, as far as looks...they've just made them cheaper and cheaper as it goes on.  Not all that impressed with the &quot;new, lighter, cheaper&quot; stuff at all...they seem to break a LOT more than the good old window units of yore.  Here's a link to the basic model:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.shop.coolrunninghs.com/LG-LWHD1800R-WINDOW-ROOM-AIR-CONDITIONER-18000-BTU-LWHD1800R.htm" target="_blank">LG LWHD1800R WINDOW ROOM AIR CONDITIONER 18,000 BTU</a><br />
<br />
The latest one is less than two years old, and the compressor just suddenly stopped coming on.  We'd finally been able to turn it off for a few days, and then needed it yesterday.  The fan comes on, all the lights/controls seem to function, just nada when the compressor is supposed to kick on.  <br />
<br />
Now, in the old days, I'd just test the rotary switch and the thermostat, and maybe the run capacitor.  Now with all the computer boards instead of actual controls, I am wondering what the first logical troubleshooting step would be.  I can swap parts from a spare machine if I know what to swap. <br />
<br />
I have already switched out that flimsy wire thing that on an old AC would be the thermostat bulb and line.  That didn't do anything.  The metal can capacitor looks fine, but could it be burnt and still look good?  I have no clue about any of the electronic stuff, so any help would be...well...helpful!<br />
<br />
Many thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/heating-ventilation-air-conditioning-hvac/">Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)</category>
			<dc:creator>beebs</dc:creator>
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