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Monti  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, June 2, 2010 4:26:02 PM(UTC)
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Monti

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Joined: 6/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

My Electric Maytag Neptune Dryer has no Heat. The control panel works just fine. The blower works good. I took off the exhaust cover and there are 3 connections on the Element Canister. I am not sure where to start looking. I have a multimeter tester the has Ohms. Should I replace the heating element, thermal cutout, and high limit thermostat? I have not tested any connections and if I do should I have the power plugged in? What should I do and where should I start? I did not see any fuses anywhere, and I think I should be taking off the front of the dryer not the bottom?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, June 3, 2010 5:50:00 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MDE6700A models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/TDL-0105-S.pdf

And a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16025911.pdf

This may also come in handy
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/TDL-0105-S.pdf
[COLOR="Blue"]
Should I replace the heating element, thermal cutout, and high limit thermostat?[/COLOR]
I would not replace anything till you do more troubleshooting.

[COLOR="Blue"]What should I do and where should I start?[/COLOR]
I would start by checking the power.
First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful 240 volts is lethal.[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]
I did not see any fuses anywhere, and I think I should be taking off the front of the dryer not the bottom?[/COLOR]
If the power is OK.
Unplug the unit and check the heating coil and thermostats etc. for continuity.
Heating coil, should be 10 ohms approximately.
Hi-limit thermostat and safety thermostat (thermal fuse) all should be 0 ohms.

Be sure to disconnect one side of and device you are measuring this prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive ohms scale.
There is a good Sticky at the beginning of this forum on meter usage.


Note: If the safety thermostat is blown, you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble. I beleive richappy (another regular poster on this forum) has done a study on thermostats and found a wide variation of actual trip point and what is specified.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
Thermistor resistance.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Monti  
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 3, 2010 8:29:47 AM(UTC)
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Monti

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Joined: 6/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

I checked the circut and terminal connections in the back. I unscrewed the 4 screws in the front door, took off the door and top panels. I looked into the element canister and found one of the heating coil broken and melted onto it.
tomok  
#4 Posted : Thursday, June 3, 2010 9:19:38 AM(UTC)
Quote
tomok

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 48

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MDE6700A models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/m...rary/docs/TDL-0105-S.pdf

And a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16025911.pdf

This may also come in handy
http://www.servicematters.com/m...rary/docs/TDL-0105-S.pdf

Should I replace the heating element, thermal cutout, and high limit thermostat?
I would not replace anything till you do more troubleshooting.

What should I do and where should I start?
I would start by checking the power.
First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

I did not see any fuses anywhere, and I think I should be taking off the front of the dryer not the bottom?
If the power is OK.
Unplug the unit and check the heating coil and thermostats etc. for continuity.
Heating coil, should be 10 ohms approximately.
Hi-limit thermostat and safety thermostat (thermal fuse) all should be 0 ohms.

Be sure to disconnect one side of and device you are measuring this prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also use your most sensitive ohms scale.
There is a good Sticky at the beginning of this forum on meter usage.


Note: If the safety thermostat is blown, you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble. I beleive richappy (another regular poster on this forum) has done a study on thermostats and found a wide variation of actual trip point and what is specified.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
Thermistor resistance.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).


Could you please check my post on the Bosch dryer ...sounds similar but ....coil is fine
thanks
denman  
#5 Posted : Thursday, June 3, 2010 9:49:18 AM(UTC)
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denman

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tomok
Sorry but I do not have access to any Bosh tech data so cannot help.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
tomok  
#6 Posted : Thursday, June 3, 2010 9:52:44 AM(UTC)
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tomok

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Joined: 1/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 48

Thanks,
But just in your opinion do the thermal caps or resetable thermostats go bad frequently. For a $50 bill is it wothe a replacement....
denman  
#7 Posted : Friday, June 4, 2010 2:26:23 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

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Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I have no experience with Bosch.

I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "thermal caps"

I am used to the thermostats used in North American units re: a small disk/can with a metal face. Theses do go bad as they are just a thermally controlled set of contacts.
They usually either blow open or the contacts weld together.
Blown open is easy to check with a meter. All the ones I have seen should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
The welded together is a little harder. I heat up the metal face using my soldering gun, if the contacts open once the face get hot then they are usually OK. Can also be heated up on a stove top.

Sorry I cannot be much help but I am not even sure what terminology they use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
tomok  
#8 Posted : Friday, June 4, 2010 5:24:41 AM(UTC)
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tomok

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 48

Hi Denman,
Thanks for the reply. Just for your information, you can see the history of this problem and other similar in the thread...Bosch dryer.won't heat....
I guess I will try replacing the black capacitor and the thermostat. Total cost is only about $40. ....at least I will have a spare if it doesn't work.
Thanks
Tomok
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