[Slaughter31805]

My dryer timer doesnt move and it doesnt heat up. It does however turn on and spin. If I turn it on it spins until I turn it off and the timer never moves and my clothes stay wet and cold. I was able to put it on permanant press for about a week and it would dry but it would take about 3 hours to dry. As of today it stopped drying as well. We just bought a timer and are waiting for that to come in. Do you think its the timer? or do you think its that and something else? or something else all together? I really need help with this because we cant afford to buy a new one and we can t afford to have someone come out and fix it so we are going to do it ourselves. I just need to know what is wrong with it first???? Can anybody help me ASAP ??????

Thanks
Amanda

[denman]

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208528192.pdf

My dryer timer doesnt move and it doesnt heat up. It does however turn on and spin. If I turn it on it spins until I turn it off and the timer never moves and my clothes stay wet and cold.
Does it do this in both timed and auto modes?
In timed dry the timer motor gets power directly from the line L1 to L2 (240 volts).
In auto modes the timer motor gets power through the heating coil when the coil is shut off by the thermostat.

I was able to put it on permanent press for about a week and it would dry but it would take about 3 hours to dry. As of today it stopped drying as well.
Symptoms seem strange. Usually it is timed dry that runs OK.

Do you think its the timer?
Hard to say but I doubt it since the timer is hard wired across the 240 volts.
Note: That the main motor uses only half the line.
Does the timer advance in timed dry?
If yes then you know that you have the 240 volts.
If no check the power to the unit.
First try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord.
Be careful 240 volts is lethal.
If OK

I just need to know what is wrong with it first????
Try the above power reset if that does not work I would recommend you get a meter and use it to troubleshoot.
You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.