[mtsolutions]

Dryer stopped drying clothes even thought cycle runs complete. Replace Ignitor and it seems to run for about 15 minutes then stopped getting heat. I tested the Heat Control Thermostat - its closed, Tested flame sensor and its also closed, Tested safety thermostat its also closed. Checked all the venting to make sure no clogs

I am thinking coils (Gas Valve) ?

Running out of ideas ? .

Thanks,

[mtsolutions]

I decided to run some more tests. I can see the ignitor glow and the first time it ignited a flame which lasted 1-2-minutes.. Then I stopped the dryer to repeat the test and ignitor glowed but no flame... Repeated test and no flame even though ignitor glowed.

I tested the flame sensor by removing the wires (be careful their is voltage as dryer is plugged in) and ran a cycle then touched the wires together and the ignitor glowed (It stayed a glow as long as the wires were touching) but no flame.

This leads me to strongly believe the gas valve coils are not working 100% of the time. If I have a glowing ignitor that does not ignite I must have no gas present ?

So as a novice I ask what killed the flame on the first test ? What is causing no flame present most of the time ?

I think I am going to go with bad coils ? Any expert advice ?

Thanks,

[ddcook]

I THINK I'VE DEVISED A WAY TO FULLY TEST ONE BUT COULD USE INPUT FROM SOMEONE SMART HERE. SHOULD FLAME SENSOR HAVE ZERO RESISTANCE (FULL CONTINUITY) UNTIL EXPOSED TO FLAME (OR INTENSE LIGHT ie 200 WATT LIGHT BULB TO BENCH TEST) FOR 15-30 SECONDS AT WHICH POINT YOU CAN FEEL A "CLICK" INTERNALLY AND THE RESISTANCE GOES WAY UP ? AFTER ALL, THE INTENT SEEMS TO BE TO ALLOW BURNER TO LIGHT BY OPENING GAS VALVE FOR SOME PERIOD OF TIME (HOW LONG ?) AND CUT POWER TO VALVE IF NO FLAME IS DETECTED. ANYONE KNOW IF THE MAIN TIMER IS INVOLVED HERE OR IF IT IS ALL DONE WITH SENSOR AND VALVE ? I'M WORKING ON A WHIRLPOOL NOW AND EACH PART CHECKS OUT OK BUT IT ONLY LIGHTS THE FIRST TIME AT CYCLE START THEN ONCE FLAME GOES OFF IT WON'T RE-LIGHT. (CAN'T TELL HOW LONG AFTER START THAT OCCURS)

[Gene]

Originally Posted by mtsolutions

I decided to run some more tests. I can see the ignitor glow and the first time it ignited a flame which lasted 1-2-minutes.. Then I stopped the dryer to repeat the test and ignitor glowed but no flame... Repeated test and no flame even though ignitor glowed.

I tested the flame sensor by removing the wires (be careful their is voltage as dryer is plugged in) and ran a cycle then touched the wires together and the ignitor glowed (It stayed a glow as long as the wires were touching) but no flame.

This leads me to strongly believe the gas valve coils are not working 100% of the time. If I have a glowing ignitor that does not ignite I must have no gas present ?

So as a novice I ask what killed the flame on the first test ? What is causing no flame present most of the time ?

I think I am going to go with bad coils ? Any expert advice ?

Thanks,

The flame (heat) goes on & off during the cycle. It operates by the cycling (operating) thermostat which reads the temperature inside the dryer.

It looks to me that you are on the right track and the problem is a bad coils.

- The coil kit Part number: AP2150379

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDG336RES1 Frg(v1) / Gas Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by ddcook

I THINK I'VE DEVISED A WAY TO FULLY TEST ONE BUT COULD USE INPUT FROM SOMEONE SMART HERE. SHOULD FLAME SENSOR HAVE ZERO RESISTANCE (FULL CONTINUITY) UNTIL EXPOSED TO FLAME (OR INTENSE LIGHT ie 200 WATT LIGHT BULB TO BENCH TEST) FOR 15-30 SECONDS AT WHICH POINT YOU CAN FEEL A "CLICK" INTERNALLY AND THE RESISTANCE GOES WAY UP ? AFTER ALL, THE INTENT SEEMS TO BE TO ALLOW BURNER TO LIGHT BY OPENING GAS VALVE FOR SOME PERIOD OF TIME (HOW LONG ?) AND CUT POWER TO VALVE IF NO FLAME IS DETECTED. ANYONE KNOW IF THE MAIN TIMER IS INVOLVED HERE OR IF IT IS ALL DONE WITH SENSOR AND VALVE ? I'M WORKING ON A WHIRLPOOL NOW AND EACH PART CHECKS OUT OK BUT IT ONLY LIGHTS THE FIRST TIME AT CYCLE START THEN ONCE FLAME GOES OFF IT WON'T RE-LIGHT. (CAN'T TELL HOW LONG AFTER START THAT OCCURS)

The flame sensor actually is a thermal switch. As you can see on the diagram (attached to the reply), the flame sensor is wired in series with the coils. The flame sensor resistance is almost zero compare to the relatively high coils resistance and the power to the igniter goes through the flame sensor. When the sensor reads enough temperature produced by the igniter, it opens and the power goes through the coils causing them to open the gas to the burner and the igniter lights the burner right before it turns off.

Most likely the problem with your dryer is a bad coils. You can use the same coil kit for Whirlpool dryer because they are identical.

- The coil kit Part number: AP2150379

Gene.

[mtsolutions]

I ordered new coils and will post update after installing them. I do have a dumb question. When I removed the front panel of the dryer the tumbler sags. I noticed the inside of the front cover lost all it's paint by rubbing on the felt seal which is rusty color on one side.

I am thinking the bearing is broke that holds the tumbler and that's why its sagging ?

Would I need a bearing kit and is this easily replaced ? AP2142648

Thanks,

[Gene]

More likely the problem is a worn out front felt seal with glides (#20 & #21 on the diagram).

- The upper felt seal Part number: AP2150497

- The lower seal Part number: AP2143044

Gene.

[mtsolutions]

I have those items already I ordered them with the igniter. Just did not bother installing them until the dryer is running correctly. So I will give that a go when the coils arrive.

Thanks Again.

[Gene]

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.

[mtsolutions]

Okay the new coils arrived in just 2 days (super fast ground shipping).

I installed them in under 5 minutes and the dryer is working great...

The part was less than $20 and the Dryer is working very well. Thanks to this site and the expert Mediator for the advice.

Great Web Site

Thanks.