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Admiral dryer will not spin

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My dryer will not spin. We typically run a load of clothes and let them dry for a little while

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Old 04-07-2010, 08:49 PM
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Lightbulb Admiral dryer will not spin
Model Number: AED4475TQ0   Brand: Admiral   Age: 1 - 5 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


My dryer will not spin. We typically run a load of clothes and let them dry for a little while then hang them up to finish drying (saves energy so they say). Anyway when doing the last load opened the door (while it was running) pulled out some clothes to hang up, closed the door to continue drying the other clothes and it would not start again. There is no moter sound (so probably not a belt thing).

Here is the kind of scarry part. The heating element does come on and still heats up. This happens even if the door is open. The only way to turn it is off is to turn the timer dial to off or a no heat option.

My thoughts are the start switch is bad or the door switch. How can I test these to see which may be bad. Or am I way off base.

Thanks in advance.
Walt.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2010, 04:56 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG AED4475TQ0 29" Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208576793.pdf

Since you have no motor but do have heat it sounds like the centrifugal switches on the motor are being activated all the time. Though usually you will hear the motor buzz if the start winding is disconnected.

Any ways there are 2 centrifugal switches and they activate when the motor gets close to operating speed.
One of them switches out the start winding which would cause the motor to overheat if left in circuit while running. If it is activated the motor will not start.
The other switches in heating element, this ensures that the coil does not get hot unless there is air flow.

Could be the motor is just jammed solid with lint or the mechanism that activates the switches is broken.

Could be other things but this is the most likely.

While you have it opened up you may as well check the belt, rear suppot rollers etc for wear aand slop, basically a bit of an overhaul.

Also clean the interior including the blower wheel.
I would also clean/check the vent system.
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:16 PM
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Default Admiral electric dryer(AED4475TQ0)no exhaust to outside

I have an Admiral electric dryer as well (AED4475TQ0), and for some reason, I noticed that no air is coming from the outside exhaust where dryer is ducted to. I disassembled all rigid ducting and cleaned out (there was much lint present). The main run to outside from dryer is 4" PVC pipe, which I cleaned with Linteater. It appears that all ducting is free of lint however, I still don't feel any air exhausting to outside vent when dryer is on. Is it possible lint may be clogging internal blower hole / wheel assembly hole? How di I access internal hole (from front or rear)? Any assistance regarding this issue / model dryer is greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:54 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag AED4475TQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

I am assuming that the drum rotates.

Is it possible lint may be clogging internal blower hole / wheel assembly hole?

Unlikely as you get no air so the plug would be very large and I have never seen a totally plugged Blower.
You have to check if you get air without the vent attached.

Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

How di I access internal hole (from front or rear)?
take a look at the blower wheel Item 10 in Section 03.
Click on the description or picture to open a new page. There is a video that I think will apply to your unit.

Since the motor runs (drum rotates), there is a possibility that the blower wheel has stripped out and needs replacing.

While you have it open you may as well check other parts for wear re: the belt, rear support rollers, front glides, internal seals, idler wheel etc.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf AED4475.pdf (506.1 KB, 2 views)
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:57 AM
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denman,
Thank you for taking the time to reply and post the additional information and attachment, I appreciate it! where do I locate blower wheel Item 10 in Section 03 once attachment is downloaded?
The drum does rotate and function normal. While I was cleaning out the duct work, I had wanted to run the dryer without having the ductwork attached but forgot! Will do this and post follow up (thank you for the idea about using pantyhouse, very much appreciated).
With regard to rigid duct that connects back of dryer to pipe that exhausts dryer to the outside. The rigid duct has a "U" shape that's about 3 ft. (goes up from back of dryer and down into floor/exhaust pipe). Is that acceptable or should I "crush" rigid duct down some?
Also, I had a 4" plastic vent / damper flap outside, that had been weatherbeaten and began falling apart. I replaced with 4" metal exhaust vent with metal damper. Is metal or plastic better for this situation? Is metal damper to heavy for exhausted air to operate correctly?
Again, thank you for your time and assistance. It's appreciated!

Last edited by AppUser1 : 06-17-2014 at 02:03 AM.
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:46 AM
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Item 10 in Section 03
This is in the parts, see below
Part number: AP2997251

Part number: AP2997251


should I "crush" rigid duct down some?
Do not crush the vent pipe.
The U in the vent pipe may be causing probems but it may be the only pratical way to hook the unit up.
it would be better to go directly out the back to the vent but that may not be possible.

Is metal or plastic better for this situation? Is metal damper to heavy for exhausted air to operate correctly?
I cannot say without actually being there to check the vent cover.
You will have to check how it opens and the airflow once the dryer is hooked up.

Sorry for the delay on getting back to you but I had to go to the cabin for a few days.
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Old 06-22-2014, 01:48 PM
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denman, thank you for your follow up and providing the additional information and tutorial. It's very much appreciated.
With regard to rigid duct going from rear of dryer to exhaust pipe to floor (to outside), can that be cut to make a smoother transition from rear of dryer to floor, and eliminating the "U" from rigid duct? What do you suggest I use to cut duct with (if cutting it won't be an issue)?
Is there a way to confirm blower wheel is defective without opening the dryer?
Again, thank you for taking the time to follow up and assist. It's very much appreciated!

Last edited by AppUser1 : 06-22-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:30 PM
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From your post it sounds like sheet metal ducting.
You should be able to cut it with a pair of tin snips.
Also a Dremel or angle grinder will work but then you have sparks flying all over.

If the duct to the outside and the dryer duct are inline or close to being in line then I would get some of the expandable foil (not plastic) duct.
Cut enough of it when expanded so that the dryer can be pulled forward enough for you to tighten/loosen at least one of the pipe clamps.
Then tighten up both clamps and then just push the dryer back into place.
Then check with a flashlight to be sure that the expandable duct is still OK.

I do not know if the above will work for you as you have to have room on one side of the dryer so you can reach in and get at the clamps.

I had a problem at my daughters that may be similar to yours.
They had a washer and dryer side by side in a closet with the vent going out the floor and it was not lined up with the dryer vent.
You just could not get in at it so every time the dryer was pushed back the vent hose got squashed or came loose. Was a real pain.
I used rigid duct to come out the back and then straight up above the dryers console. I had to squish the vertical pipe a little so they could close the closet doors but only a little. I sealed this with the good foil type duct tape and attached it to the back of the dryer. Then I put in an elbow and some more duct so I could got out the wall instead of the floor and installed e new exterior vent. I do not know if this will work for you but it did the job at her place.

if front to back clearance is an issue you can get rectangular vent that is only a couple inches this but has the same or more cross sectional area of a 3 inch round vent.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:10 PM
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denman, duct from back of dryer to floor is 4" semi-rigid duct (my apologies, I believe I may have referred to it as rigid duct).
Here is photo of duct coming from rear of dryer. I have a swivel elbow connected to rear of dryer and semi-rigid duct is connected to that;


Here is photo showing duct going to floor;


Space is not an issue when dryer is moved back some. Duct isn't crushed however, does form "U".

I removed the semi-rigid duct from back of dryer while dryer was on, and confirm lot's of hot air coming from rear of dryer. Would this confirm blower wheel is operating correctly?
Is it possible that the blower housing tube in rear (shown in video) may be clogged?

Last edited by AppUser1 : 06-22-2014 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:20 AM
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Would this confirm blower wheel is operating correctly?
Yes

Is it possible that the blower housing tube in rear (shown in video) may be clogged?
Could be.
I would disconnect it at the floor and see if there is still good air flow.
If not then remove the vent pipe and check it.
If there is good air flow then the plug is between the floor and the outside vent.
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