[MikePinLV]

This is perhaps a stupid question, but I knew NOTHING about appliance repair prior to visiting this site and after 3 days of reading posts I feel like I can build a space shuttle. Well, at least I can tell someone ELSE how it should be done. However, I can't seem to fix my dryer.

Problem: No heat

I've followed the instructions here and performed the following:

1. Circuit breaker not tripped
2. 220 volts to the outlet
3. Terminal block not damaged
4. Disconnected Thermal fuse (#7 on schematic), ohmed, = 0
5. Disconnected Heating Element (#17 on schem), ohmed, = 0
6. Disc. thermal cut-off (#9 on schem), ohmed, = 0
7. Disc. internal Thermostat (#8 on schem), ohmed, = 0
8. Disc. fixed Thermostat (#15 on schem), ohmed, = 0

I've run the cycles (low, med, high heat) thinking perhaps the thermostat functions much like a vehicle thermostat and it was perhaps shutting down the heat. However, no heat materialized in any of the cycles.

Now, for the stupid question. Is it possible the element is non-functional yet still provides resistance at the above-referenced points?

Is there perhaps something else which I have not yet located on this forum but is referenced in another thread offering additional suggestions?

Your patience and response are much appreciated. MP

[SublimeMasterJW]

The power to energize the heater also goes through the timer.
Follow the large wire from the heating element up to the timer.
disconnect the wire from the timer at that terminal and do a test. put a lead from your meter on that terminal, put your other lead on any other terminal. Got a reading? Try turning the knob slowly. Got a reading yet? If not then that means inside the timer the contacts are all burned up. Replace the timer.

[MikePinLV]

Thank you for your unexpected timely response. Any idea which color that wire would be? There are 8 terminal points (as you may know) on the back of the timer. There are 2 terminal points on the heating element and one goes directly to the thermostat (I think) and the other goes under the drum. The wiring harness running up the back of the machine and dumping out into the back of the control panel is nearly impossible to trace back. If the wire I was supposed to remove from the back of the timer happens to be red, I did that.

I removed the red wire and ohmed that terminal with the thermostat. No reading

I ohmed it with the element. No reading

Is this the right wire?

If so, bad timer?

Does a bad timer continue to advance through the cycles (mine does)?

If so, and you think mine has gone kaput, would a bad timer prevent heating?

Thanks again, MP

[Gene]

Hi Mike,

In addition to all of the above I would recommend to check the temperature switch for continuity across the terminals "AH" & "AH1" and/or "1" & "4" (two red wires).

Post your findings.

Gene.

[MikePinLV]

Continuity across #'s 1&4 good.

Thanks again for following up.

Any other thoughts as to what it might be?

[Gene]

Remove the black and the red wires from the timer and check for continuity across the corresponded timer terminals while the timer is in "on" position.

Check for continuity across the red wire removed from the timer and the red wire removed from the heating element.

Gene.

[MikePinLV]

Continuity checks out across red and black terminals on timer.

NO continuity when reading element and red lead on timer.

Note: There are 2 red wires coming from the heating element. I detached each and checked independently. No reading.

[abbie]

Mike Try running the dryer in the heat cycle,while it,s running hold the timer knob and move the knob up and down and then side to side for a few minutes,then stop the dryer and check inside for heat,if so then replace timer..

[MikePinLV]

No luck. Upon taking your suggestion I did the same with the "heat shield" knob and set it at various settings while wiggling the timer knob. No heat that way either.

[abbie]

Mike let,s try going down to the dryer,s drive motor.The dryer motor has a centrifugal switch,if this is not working properly there will be no heat.To check the switch you could try tapping the motor switch lightly with a screw drivers handle, then run and check for heat.Or you could check by removing the switch from motor,and remove blue motor lead.With an ohmmeter,check between terminals 4 and 5 and between terminals 2 and 3.continuity should be present in both test.Then depress the switch plunger and check for closed contacts between terminals 4 and the black motor lead terminal on the back of the switch.Check for open contacts between terminals 2 and 3 If the switch fails to meet any of the tests replace .