GE Profile Harmony Dryer - Intermittant Blower Motor?
Dryer is sometimes not drying the clothes by the end of the cycle.
Here are the symptoms:
Sometimes the blower motor (separate motor on this unit) does not start up. Other times it does.
Sometimes during the cycle it groans and stops in the middle of the cycle. The drum keeps going as normal no matter what.
The blower will sometimes start back up and work.
When it is working, the clothes will dry and all is fine.
When it isn't, the heat shuts off and clothes don't dry.
Here is what I have tested:
Checked 240 Volt in = OK
Entered diagnostics by-
Powered up the unit,
Hold "My Cycles" and "Back" at the same time
Sometimes I get - Inlet Thermistor Problem
Sometimes I get - Blower Motor not up to speed
Sometimes - No error detected
I removed the blower motor and checked ohms:
Blue to Blue = 14 ohms
Red to Red = 14 ohms
Yel to Yel = 14 ohms
I powered up the dryer and checked the other wires on blower motor:
Black to Orange = 5 vdc (assuming this is encode in)
Black to Brown = 0 vdc when not spinning if it started to work I got voltage out (like 2.12vdc)
(I assume this is some sort of tach or encoder out of the motor to control board to tell it the speed it is turning).
When it wasn't spinning I was getting dc voltage across the red pair. It would start low and go up to 12 vdc then shut off for a while. When the voltage is there the motor makes a high pitched whine and it will jerk and shimmy and kind of lock the shaft. Sometimes it takes off and runs, then all seems fine.
I see an access door on the back for the inlet themistor.
Can this part cause the blower to not operate?
How can I check it and what measurement do I look for?
I assume some ohms range related/depending on temp?
I checked the outlet thermistor when I had the blower out and it read 225K? I dont know if this matters or can cause the blower to stop?
It changed values when I held it in my hand and returned when I let it go.
Looking at the limited diagram in the control panel, it looks like it is either the motor or the inverter board but I am open to suggestions???
In Factory test mode (the instructions attached), check blower rpm (1900 - 3000 rpm).
Check the inverter (the instructions attached).
The thermistors resistance has to be measured at the room temperature. The outlet thermistor should have a resistance value of 10 KOhms ± 3% and the inlet thermistor should have a resistance of 2.27 KOhms ± 5%.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric DPGT750EC1PL Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com
Did you get this fixed??
I was wondering if you ever figured out how to fix your dryer? Mine is doing the EXACT same thing and I really don't know where to go with it next. I tried the inlet thermistor but that didn't fix it. It is drving me crazy!!:mad:
I went to the factory test mode as Gene instructed.
You need to realize that this is an intermittant type of problem.
When I went to the test mode it happened that the blower came up working.
The blower ramped up and settled in around 2380 RPM or so checking good.
All of the sensors and heating etc checked good also.
** I want to note here that my inlet thermistor measured 225Kohms out of the dryer. That is around 100 times what Gene said it should be, however I now don't think this is a problem as the test mode showed me extremely close temperature readings to those that were present during the test and varied accordingly.
Benjen879 - do you have an ohm meter to cross check your inlet thermistor? I would be interested in how many ohms you see on your sensors.
I left the dryer in the test mode and at 16:49 minutes of running fine, the dryer groaned to a halt.
The blower now showed 0 RPM. It only took a few seconds to shut down.
It gave off a pretty good groan as it stopped.
All tests still show - OK
Blower motor 0 RPM
I tested the inverter board following the procedure Gene supplied.
It tested good in both states - all of the voltages they were looking for were there whether the blower was blowing or not.
My actual measurements were:
124 vac in
You can tell/hear when the board trys to restart the blower.
There is a little high pitched whine coming from the motor for about 4 seconds or so. It stops for a while and then trys again.
Sometimes I would see a slight bump in the blower RPM at this time, maybe up to 6 RPM or so, but usually it just stayed on 0.
This time the blower didn't restart before I quit testing. In the past, sometimes it comes back on fine.
I'm really leaning towards a blower motor, even though the windings ohm check fine. I think the tach/encoder section may be malfunctioning.
Is there any further tests or recommendations anyone can suggest?
Still no idea
Nope no more suggestions. I did order and install the inlet thermistor but it did not fix the issue. We do not have an OHM meter (just a regular one I guess) but both the old and new inlet thermistor tested the same na-da! I don't know what the heck is going on.
The only thing I can think of is that we are looking at bad blower motors. Possibly they are getting hot and pulling too much current and shutting down the inverter board power or there is some type of glitchy problem with the feedback coming from the motor. My inverter board seems to be supplying all voltages according to the tests.
My dryer (for now) seems to dry a load before it wants to screw up, making me think it is heat related.
With that said:
I think we both need a Blower Motor
(The motor in my dryer is actually made by LG and crosses to their P/N 4681EL1001A)
The only other part I see in the possibility list is the Inverter PWB (main board)
But I don't see anything that leads me to think this part is bad.
Anybody else want to suggest anything????
And if anyone has had this problem before and fixed it, PLEASE chime in and let us know what fixed it for you!
You know it sure would be nice if GE would take some of the responsibility for these crappy blowers!!! Seriously I have literally obessed about this and found the same thing on website after website with people complaining about the exact same thing. I say we rise up against them and start some kind of petition. I would take a long time to get up a bunch of statements but until someone starts holding these companies responsible they are not going to do anything. I mean look at car companies they have to issue recalls and fix problems with their products. What's the difference with an appliance that you purchase for nearly $1000.00 and expect the d*** thing to work for at least 5 years!! I am going to do some research or contact BBB or something. I probably won't get jack for it but at least GE will know that these are crappy blower:p
- The blower motor Part number: AP3791484
The blower motor with the LG part number is more expensive.
Ok so I it is heat related. My problem with replacing the blower is the darn thing works. So it has to be something sensor/computer related telling the unit it is too hot and to shut off. Any suggestions out there?:confused:
What I think they mean by heat related is that the blower motor itself is shutting down, possibly when thermal protection kicks in. I think the blower motor is bad, it does run but after a short while gets hot and shuts off. Sometimes it cools off and restarts, other times it requires a longer rest before it will run for a while again.
I'm changing out mine soon, so if you want to wait to see if it fixes mine, be my guest. I will be sure to post either way because I think there are plenty of people out there experiencing the same issue.
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