[joesteinerii]

I'm having the same problem with my dryer, seems to be getting progressively more frequent. I'm going to have to change out the blower motor at some point in time. I opened the dryer up, was able to get the blower fan off the shaft (reverse thread) by putting a 6" crescent on the back shaft of the blower motor. I wasn't able to get the blower fan housing out though, it looks like the drum needs to come off. Anyone out there done that?

[bad1nla]

[quote=joesteinerii;211399]I'm having the same problem with my dryer, seems to be getting progressively more frequent. I'm going to have to change out the blower motor at some point in time. I opened the dryer up, was able to get the blower fan off the shaft (reverse thread) by putting a 6" crescent on the back shaft of the blower motor. I wasn't able to get the blower fan housing out though, it looks like the drum needs to come off. Anyone out there done that?[/quote



Yes you will have to remove the fan and then you can get to the three screwes in the housing behind the fan, one right below the fan at the front of the housing and then remove the drum to get to the last one on the right side. To remove the motor there are two compression clips one on the face of the motor and one at the rear.

[jniggli]

You will need to remove the drum. Take out the 4 screws holding the front of the drum in and slip the belt off of the spring loaded tensioner. Everything is MUCH easier to work on with the drum out of the way.

[BARTMAN]

Originally Posted by jniggli

Thanks for the info George... I picked up a 512-KSA733YBU (cost a nickel)
I kind of guessed at the hFE value of 120 based on a "Y" on my original part. (my part had a second line with a "YC307" so I took a shot)
Also I noticed a tiny hairline crack (using a magnifier) in the transistor, strengthening by belief that this is the culprit.
The part removes relatively easy with a soldering iron and some Soder-Wick since it is only soldered on the bottom side and the holes don't flow through.
All of the other components checked out good, as did all 12 coils.
SA1 (the horseshoe emitter/detector pair that triggers through openings in the rotor) was the only other component I didn't know how to test and I didn't see a visible part number on it.
Let me know any updates! You may be running on borrowed time!

I have the same problem with blower motor. I wanted to know if replacing the transistor worked. I though I check before spending $145 on a new motor. I took the motor apart and found the transistor but it has a different part number K-322 A1266 Y. I dont know how to test. I have a Fluke Multimeter. any help wopuld be greatly appreciated

[jniggli]

Hi BARTMAN,
The A1266 is the same thing as my A733. My transistor came in today and I am putting it in but I already purchased a replacement blower motor long ago to get a fast fix. Sorry but I don't think I will be in a hurry to tear the dryer down again to test this out since it is working fine, I'm hanging on to this motor as a spare for now. I posted earlier about how to test the transistor with a Fluke, look back on the earlier page. Maybe you can try one if you want to try and save the $145 and let us know. It is only a nickel and shipping from Mouser to try out! There isn't much to the circuit and from my experience these transistors fail pretty often. Jury is still out on this one though since no one has taken it all the way through and posted back with a fix.

[BARTMAN]

Originally Posted by jniggli

Hi BARTMAN,
The A1266 is the same thing as my A733. My transistor came in today and I am putting it in but I already purchased a replacement blower motor long ago to get a fast fix. Sorry but I don't think I will be in a hurry to tear the dryer down again to test this out since it is working fine, I'm hanging on to this motor as a spare for now. I posted earlier about how to test the transistor with a Fluke, look back on the earlier page. Maybe you can try one if you want to try and save the $145 and let us know. It is only a nickel and shipping from Mouser to try out! There isn't much to the circuit and from my experience these transistors fail pretty often. Jury is still out on this one though since no one has taken it all the way through and posted back with a fix.

Is there a specific reading. numbers from test were from 1.9 ohms to 9.0 ohms from B-E & B-C. I am pretty new a testing transistors. Does open means should have a zero reading from C-E? If I can get transitor I will chenge and post motor result.

[jniggli]

BARTMAN,
You need to check it like a diode. Hopefully your Fluke has a Diode check mode - most do.
Switch the meter to the Diode symbol (arrow pointing to a line).
If you touch your leads together usually a Fluke will give an audible tone in this mode (beeps).
Take the transistor off the board (desolder it) and tape it down and spread the leads so you can probe it.
Put your black lead on the middle leg and put your red lead to either side.
You should see approximately 0.7
Put the red lead to the middle and black to the outside.
You should see no change - just like the leads are sitting apart and unused.
Switch your meter to resistance (ohms - Horseshoe symbol)
Reading across outside leads should be just like the leads on the meter are apart again. You should see no change (typically 0.L)

I just retested my original transistor and it is consistantly failing now. The new ones I picked up read perfect.

[BARTMAN]

Originally Posted by jniggli

BARTMAN,
You need to check it like a diode. Hopefully your Fluke has a Diode check mode - most do.
Switch the meter to the Diode symbol (arrow pointing to a line).
If you touch your leads together usually a Fluke will give an audible tone in this mode (beeps).
Take the transistor off the board (desolder it) and tape it down and spread the leads so you can probe it.
Put your black lead on the middle leg and put your red lead to either side.
You should see approximately 0.7
Put the red lead to the middle and black to the outside.
You should see no change - just like the leads are sitting apart and unused.
Switch your meter to resistance (ohms - Horseshoe symbol)
Reading across outside leads should be just like the leads on the meter are apart again. You should see no change (typically 0.L)

I just retested my original transistor and it is consistantly failing now. The new ones I picked up read perfect.

I removed the transistor and it failed. will the motor operate with any transistor? I have a 2n3906 transistor available right now. I did however orded the ones from mouse from prior posting, will be here in a few days. Jniggli thank you for your help I learned alot from just 2 of your posts.

[jniggli]

The electrical characteristics of the the general purpose transistor you reference look quite a bit diifferent than the datasheet for the A733. I would wait for the transistor you ordered to arrive and use it.
Just a note here - the testing method i described is just for the type of transistor used in this circuit (PNP). There are other types of transistors that look identical but are significantly different and need to be tested differently.
The case type or package may appear identical but that doesn't mean it will function in the circuit. The same is true with virtually all components.
I hope this helps and let us know if it fixes your dryer. Good luck!

[BARTMAN]

Originally Posted by jniggli

The electrical characteristics of the the general purpose transistor you reference look quite a bit diifferent than the datasheet for the A733. I would wait for the transistor you ordered to arrive and use it.
Just a note here - the testing method i described is just for the type of transistor used in this circuit (PNP). There are other types of transistors that look identical but are significantly different and need to be tested differently.
The case type or package may appear identical but that doesn't mean it will function in the circuit. The same is true with virtually all components.
I hope this helps and let us know if it fixes your dryer. Good luck!

will update as soon as I replace transistor.