[benjen879]

You are probably right about the blower. I just do not have the $$ right now to purchase and repair the dryer. I guess I have no other choice but to see if this works for you. Until then the laundry mat will get many visits from me I just wanted to be able to purchase the part and know that would fix it since I am on limited funds as it is. Still I think GE knows about this problem and should have corrected it. I was amazed at all the people that have posted this exact same complaint and most just give up on it b/c even the GE service repair people couldn't nail down what is wrong. From what I am hearing we will have to replace this blower several times over the course of ownership.

[jniggli]

I replaced the blower motor a few days ago.
That fixed my problem.

Here is a run down from memory of what you need to do:
Remember - I might have missed a step or two but this should get you there!
Order the blower motor Gene suggested. The price was the lowest I could find, but feel free to check for youself.
Unplug the dryer
Take out 4 screws in the top of the instrument console
Lean it forward
Take out 2 screws in the back corners that are revealed by leaning the top forward
lift and slide the top cover forward to unlatch from the front
Lift the front of the top cover to reveal 2 more screws securing the front cover
Remove 4 screws you can see when you open the dryer door
Take out the lint screen and set it aside
Lean the front cover forward and unplug the door switch
Lift off and remove the front cover and door and set aside (it sets on 2 pins onm the bottom)
Remove the 2 screws that hold the shroud for the lint screen and remove the metal cover
Remove 4 screws holding the cover that holds the front of the drum
Remove the belt from around the spring loaded tensioner down on the lower left of the dryer
Lift off and remove the front drum cover and set aside
Remove drum and belt and set aside
Now you can pretty much see what you need to do
remove the 2 screws holding the plastic blower exhaust down
remove 2 screws holding blower motor down
unplug 2 spade terminals, 1 sensor, and the blower motor wiring harness connector.
Remove screws to get to the squirrel cage
Unbolt the squirrel cage REVERSE THREADED NUT and remove
3 more screws now exposed, hold that plastic to the motor assy
take off the 2 spring loaded clips to finally remove the motor from the cradle
Reverse the steps to reinstall

I took the opportunity to clean, blow out, vacuum etc etc all of the guts at this time since it is all right there for you.

Don't do like I did and forget to reconnect the door switch!!! I had to repeat a few steps of my disassembly!!
Then it was BEER TIME in my dry pants!

[gewill]

I also have the exact problem. Was it the motor??
GW

[jniggli]

Yes,
As I said, the blower motor replacement fixed the problem.
It has been working fine ever since.
I took the old motor apart. You can easily do this by taking out the four screws holding the halves together. All of the guts are slip fit so it comes right apart.
On the circuit board under the stator - I suspect a flakey transistor, possibly failing when hot.
It was lableled Q1,
the part number on the component is A733
It is a low frequency amplifier, PNP Epitaxial Silicon Transistor.
I am ordering one (it only costs 30 cents or so)
I think replacing this cheap component will fix my original motor.

[gewill]

Thanks so much for the update. I too, would like to replace the transistor
and see if that is the problem ( am also a technician) and was wondering what could be wrong inside the motor. My dryer has been working the last couple of days but I know the problem will return. Where is that transistor availiable as I would like to have it on hand when I commence dissassembly of my dryer.

George
gewill@roadrunner.com

[jniggli]

I checked local electronics shops. If you get desperate I have seen them on ******** but you probably have to get 10 or so but they seemed cheap compared to the motor. Look for A733
Hope this helps - post back with your results!

[gewill]

Thanks for the update. After a long search I found some at "mouser.com/transistors" and enter in search box "512-KSA733"
They sell them each. My dumb dryer has started to work OK recently but I will buy a few transistors and try them when it quits again. Let me know if you have any luck with the transistor replacement, I will let you know if I do. Thanks again, George

[jniggli]

Thanks for the info George... I picked up a 512-KSA733YBU (cost a nickel)
I kind of guessed at the hFE value of 120 based on a "Y" on my original part. (my part had a second line with a "YC307" so I took a shot)
Also I noticed a tiny hairline crack (using a magnifier) in the transistor, strengthening by belief that this is the culprit.
The part removes relatively easy with a soldering iron and some Soder-Wick since it is only soldered on the bottom side and the holes don't flow through.
All of the other components checked out good, as did all 12 coils.
SA1 (the horseshoe emitter/detector pair that triggers through openings in the rotor) was the only other component I didn't know how to test and I didn't see a visible part number on it.
Let me know any updates! You may be running on borrowed time!

[gewill]

If there is a crack in the transistor it definately is bad, probably from overheating from too much current draw. I would suggest you buy 3 -4 transistors because something is drawing too much current to cause the overheating. The transistor should read significantly different ohm reading when you reverse the meter leads from 2 sets of 2 leads. Like two semiconductors with one end of each connected together. GOOD LUCK
George

[jniggli]

It tests good.... but it also works fine - for a while!

If you lay this transistor on its back with the part number and flat side facing you and leads towards you - the leads are like this from left to right:
Emitter - Collector - Base
Since this is a silicon PNP transistor you can check like this:

TESTING TRANSISTORS
test the B-C junction and the B-E junction as if they were standard diodes. if one of those junctions is a "bad diode", then the transistor is bad.
(Black lead on Base conducts - Red lead on Base shows open)

Also, check the resistance from C to E
If the transistor is good, you should get an open circuit reading from collector to emitter (both ways).

I have a Peak Atlas DCA55 component tester but you may not be so fortunate!

I used freeze mist and heat gun, the readings moved around (lower with heat higher with cold) but still checked reasonably well.
Bottom line -- mmmmmmmmmm-- unsure.