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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 10:33 PM
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Default replaced transistor, dryer won't power up

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You guys are great and I appreciate all your help. My dryer had the exact symptoms described above. I replaced the transistor, and now the dryer will not even power up. Nothing on the display when I push the power button. Took the dryer apart again, and could find no obvious problems. The door close switch was even connected.

Any ideas.

Thanks

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2012, 12:41 PM
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What is the complete model number of the dryer?

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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 01:55 PM
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Default results, at last

Hello fellow frustrated dryer owners:

After taking it apart 5 times and about 25 hours of frustration, I think I finally got it. I put in the new transistor as recommended in this forum, and the same problem persisted. So, I took a blower motor out of another dryer that I knew worked ( I was replacing my electric dryer for a gas one I bought used), and nothing would power up except the drum light.

So, I went through a testing process and checked the ohms between the white (#3) and pink (#8) wire on CN11 cable, and what do you know. Just after testing the ohms, (resulting in 4 ohms) the display powered up. I had to stick a sewing pin next to each wire into the connector because my Fluke probes were too big to fit into the slots. I did this with the wire plugged in and the dryer plugged into the wall.

Conclusion? I am guessing that the computer in the system had to be re-booted for it to work. Testing the ohms on these two wires rebooted the computer. This is just a guess.

Also, be careful when when pulling these wire cables out of their slots to not pull on the wires. You can loosen one of the individual wires without knowing it, and believe me, that is a tough one to find. Guess how I know.

I hope this experience is helpful to someone else out there.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:51 PM
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Hello this is my first time posting here as I had encountered the same problem with mixed results, finally ascertaining this was a mechanical issue pertaining to motor armature/encoder flag wheel out of position in relation to the motor rpm sensor hose shoe through normal wear of the forward bearing wave washer and motor housing alignment. The housing screws need to be tightened firmly as possible ensuring proper flag sensor alignment and also replace or reform wave washer (the main culprit) ensuring positive armature down force towards rear of motor housing ensuring proper encoder flag photo transistor sensor position. when reinstalling motor be sure motor mounts in frame completely seated clip should go on relatively easy reassemble dryer and have cold one like I did not spending any money on this ensures a wife friendly beer purchase and clean DRY clothes enjoy this simple repair. I also tried the transistor only to realize thruogh voltages checks and electrical component tests that the encoder circuit was indeed functioning properly leading me to this simple wear and tear easy fix, let me know if this solution helps any of you. The armature wave washer belongs in the front bearing race. (front of dryer facing)

And The TRUTH Shall Dry You Free (pun intended).

Thank you all for helping to lead me to find the solution to this problem.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:27 PM
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I also have this problem with my dryer. I have replaced the transistor - it worked for about 4 weeks, I have "reformed " the wave washer - it worked for about 2 weeks. I think the act of opening the blower motor (splitting the case), and putting it back together is what caused it to work for awhile.
I can't see how the encoder flag and pickup could get out of alignment, without destroying itself, it has to be a tight alignment for the armature to turn.
I don't see how the transistor could work sometimes, and sometimes not work, causing the blower motor to work intermittently.
I guess I will break down and buy a new blower motor and hope for a permanent fix.
Anybody have any other ideas?
GE harmony profile dryer model # DPGT750EC2WW
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2013, 01:04 PM
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Default Another person with this intermittant heat problem!

Hi, I just spent a long time reading all of your helpful posts since I have the same problem with my dryer. I just want to make sure that these instructions are the same for my dryer....I notice the model number in the post above is DPGT750EC2WW but my dryer is DPGT750GC2PL. Hopefully the difference is just the color or something (mine is dark gray).

Thanks for all of this info...the repair tech I had come out quoted me $400 to replace the blower motor and claimed that most of it was because the part was $279. After doing my own research, I found the part on Ama*on.com for about 109.00, but this guy refused to let me buy it and just charge me for labor. After spending so much on this dryer, I dont want to spend $400, so hopefully my husband, who is not an electrician, can replace the blower motor and read this thread if he has trouble. Thanks!
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:18 PM
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Default re: int. Blower Motor GE Profile Harmony

[quote=denmor1991;799545]I also have this problem with my dryer. I have replaced the transistor - it worked for about 4 weeks, I have "reformed " the wave washer - it worked for about 2 weeks. I think the act of opening the blower motor (splitting the case), and putting it back together is what caused it to work for awhile.
I can't see how the encoder flag and pickup could get out of alignment, without destroying itself, it has to be a tight alignment for the armature to turn.
I don't see how the transistor could work sometimes, and sometimes not work, causing the blower motor to work intermittently.
I guess I will break down and buy a new blower motor and hope for a permanent fix.
Anybody have any other ideas?
GE harmony profile dryer model # DPGT750EC2WW[your correct just (the act of opening the blower motor (splitting the case), and putting it back together is what caused it to work for awhile.) there's an old tried and true method for testing the photo-transistor circuit on the bench with no power applied to the circuit with a meter set to read ohms testing across emitter /collector leads you should see a high resistance value now while continuing to test take a flash light and apply light directly into the photo-transistor horseshoe acting as a (surrogate Ir led) to cause emitter collector to show 0-2 ohms on meter means photo-transistor horseshoe encoder operational next reattach to dryer blower motor connector test circuit if you see 5vdc on encoder circuit at control board means circuit operational but no encoding causing blower motor error: if you get an average of 2.5vdc encoder circuit operational no error. the 5vdc check is telling you encoder flag out of alignment in relation to horseshoe purchase 2 wave washers that fit forward bearing race and lightly grease ensure proper reassembly of motor housing and should test and run like new, my dryer has been trouble free for 4 weeks running, hope this helps out. netnick ]
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnat413 View Post
Hi, I just spent a long time reading all of your helpful posts since I have the same problem with my dryer. I just want to make sure that these instructions are the same for my dryer....I notice the model number in the post above is DPGT750EC2WW but my dryer is DPGT750GC2PL. Hopefully the difference is just the color or something (mine is dark gray).

Thanks for all of this info...the repair tech I had come out quoted me $400 to replace the blower motor and claimed that most of it was because the part was $279. After doing my own research, I found the part on Ama*on.com for about 109.00, but this guy refused to let me buy it and just charge me for labor. After spending so much on this dryer, I dont want to spend $400, so hopefully my husband, who is not an electrician, can replace the blower motor and read this thread if he has trouble. Thanks!
most likely just a worn wave washer in the blower motor front sealed bearing race, purchase 2 new washers as they easily fit and ensure armature flag encoder alignment. also motor housing screws loosen on there own over time causing misalignment. sometimes cleaning and tigtening housing screws will get you back up and running if your not confident about splitting the case to get at worn wave washer for replacement. Hope this helps your husband out. netnick
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 06:27 PM
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Netnick, Thanks for the reply. I have to disagree. All the encoder flag has to break the beam between the transmitter and receiver. Installing or reforming a new wave washer only slightly moves the flag back toward the rear of the motor. The flag still breaks the beam between transmitter and receiver, the flag is just moved slightly. The circuit may have an intermittent electrical problem, but I don't think it is a mechanical alignment issue. thanks.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:17 PM
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If your wave washer is worn than this is only an intermittant fix, it must be replaced every time the motor starts the wave washer is compressed due to the torque at initial start up the squirrel cage / shaft of the motor springs forward momentarily causing armature flag to just slightly miss breaking the beam and with a worn wave washer it does not have enough spring action left to counter act initial motor start torque the tolerances in the design of the encoder err on the side not causing flag encoder damage thus over time decrease in the counter acting ability of the wave washer to keep the motor shaft encoder flag in the encoder horse shoe within the tolerance of consistent operation.-while in factory test mode while reading blower motor rpm manually turn blower wheel to see if its reading rpm this can be done at anytime before or after starting the test if you only read 0rpm then push and turn blower wheel towards back of motor there will be small amount of play this by design to buffer motor start-up if you see rpms than encoder circuit is fine. Than you need to deal with excessive motor shaft play. IE: wave washer replacement. thank you and I hope this clarifies where I was going with the post "good luck"
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