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davefeinstein  
#1 Posted : Friday, March 12, 2010 7:19:47 AM(UTC)
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davefeinstein

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Joined: 3/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Our Maytag Dryer with the sweater drying box rack on top does not always start when you press the start button. The membrane is slightly worn over the start button but it does click when pressed. Sometimes you have to press the button once and the unit starts and sometimes you have to press the button 20-30 times for it to start the cycle. All other buttons and displays work correcly. I am not sure if the problem is in the Console with membrane (PT#AP403902) or in the Logic board (PT# AP4039650) or both. Due to cost, I do not want to replace both parts as it is almost as much as a new dryer. Can someone familur with this unit please help to diagnose my problem as to which part I need to replace? The unit is 6 years old and works fine after we get it started. :(
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2010 1:50:14 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MCG8000AWW Dryer Cabinet - Gas | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual which should help trouble shoot it.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022785.pdf

[COLOR="Blue"]The membrane is slightly worn over the start button but it does click when pressed.[/COLOR]
This does sort of point toward the console/keypad.
Check the switch at the ribbon cable with a meter, see the manual.

If the switch closes consistently then it is probably the control board.
If the switch closes intermittently then it is the console/keypad.

Also you may want to try the following.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Rickster007  
#3 Posted : Saturday, May 29, 2010 5:55:25 AM(UTC)
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Rickster007

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Joined: 5/29/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

I had the same issue but then the dryer would not turn on at all. I had a Tech check it out and he said it was the control panel (logic board)
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