Kenmore model 70 has no heat. Last year, I replaced the themal cutoff switch after losing heat. At the time, I was able to locate the open circuit at the cutoff switch, replaced it, and all was well.

Now, I have no heat, but the coil is receiving 240v as normal. Coil reads out 10.5 ohms, and is listed as 7.5-11.5 as within normal range.

For measure, I have bypassed thermostat and thermal cutoff - no help. Coil still receives 240v, but does not heat up.

It seems as if the coil is bad, but how would it be measuring the correct resistance if it's toast? I'm not an electrician, I don't know!

Also, worth noting is that I have measured coil input with main ground input. When grounding to the coil housing, it only appears to have 120v. Don't know if this is normal.

Sorry about the model number. It's a Kenmore Series 70, model no. 66722694.

I checked input voltage to the coil by first grounding multimeter to the dryer's main ground off of incoming AC, then probed positive at both of the external coil terminals. Both showed good 240v. Also probed positive inside the coil housing to eliminate possibility of bad connection - this also showed good 240v passing through the coil.

Thermostats, thermal cutoff switch, and coil all passed continuity tests - has me stumped!

The original problem that I was trying to solve was an extremely long cycle. I had thought that the selector/timer assembly was broken, but it was at this point that I noticed the coil was not coming on and there was no heat.

The timer motor still works fine when set on timed dry, and all other positions appear to operate normally. However, last few nights the "auto dry" setting had the dryer running for well over several hours. I believe this is due to the coil not coming on.

Correct, neutral to either end wire was 120v, end to end was 240v.

Also, when measuring voltage at the coil terminals, as mentioned earlier, I was doing so with dryer running.

[COLOR="Blue"]I checked input voltage to the coil by first grounding multimeter to the dryer's main ground off of incoming AC, then probed positive at both of the external coil terminals. Both showed good 240v. Also probed positive inside the coil housing to eliminate possibility of bad connection - this also showed good 240v passing through the coil.[/COLOR]

I may be missing something but if I read the above correctly something weird is going on.

If one meter lead is on the unit's frame/ground, then you should not be able to measure 240 volts. When referenced to ground the max you shoud see is 120 volts.
Sounds like the unit may not be properly grounded.

If you see 240 volts at both sides of the heating coil then there will be 0 volts across the coil it so it will not heat.

You must measure across the coil.

If a 3 wire hook-up. I would check that the unit has a ground strap from Neutral (center terminal on the unit's terminal strip) to it's frame.

If a 4 wire hook-up. I would check that the line cord's ground wire (usually green or bare) is connected to the unit's frame and that there is not a ground strap from Neutral to the frame.

Well.. If nothing else I figured one thing out. I pulled out the coil assembly and wired it up to a test wire and plugged it in. It heated up. Coil is fine, it's something else. Continuing on.