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Cannot find any info using given model number.
When you replaced the timer did you find the wiring diagram in the control console? How this often works is that in Auto modes the timer motor gets power through the heating coil when the heating coil is turned off. The resistor you mentioned may be there to drop the heater voltage from 240 to 120 for the timer motor. Remove it and check it for continuity, usually 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. Also check that the temp settings actually change the temperatures. You may have a grounded element re: the element never turns off.
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Yes I saw the model number just cannot find any info.
Does sound like it may be a grounded element, wish I had the wiring diagram. At the end of an Auto cycle the unit goes into cool down to prevent wrinkling and shuts the heater off using a set of timer contacts. Note: Some GE's use dual elements so if one of them burns out you will stall have heat but no timer advance. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.
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Often you can get at them from the top depending on the dryer.
Perhaps the following will help http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dryers.html
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If it happens to be a heating element, I'm not going to put another $200 into and old washer. I already made a mistake thinking it was the timer $80 dollar latter I'm no further ahead and a Repairman will probable be in the $400 range.. I just keep using it till the other heating element quits. thanks for trying
John |
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