[Raljac63]

My electric dryer has no heat, I have done the follwoing:
1. replaced element
2. Checked voltage at plug got 220 volt, checked voltage at terminal strip L1&L2 got 110
2. did a continunity check on thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, operating thermostat and hi limit therostat
3. Then I jumper each of the above and the element still does not heat.
4. When I check for voltage across the heating element terminal connections while the unit is running I get zero (O) voltage.
What esle can I check? Is it a bad timer? Is there a way to bypass the time to see if it is the bad component?
Thanks
Ralph

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REX5634KQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203406688.pdf

My electric dryer has no heat, I have done the follwoing:
1. replaced element
2. Checked voltage at plug got 220 volt, checked voltage at terminal strip L1&L2 got 110
Did you get 220 at the terminal strip. I imagine the you were measuring from Neutral to L1 and L2. The problem with this is that if one side of the line is missing (bad line cord etc.), the 110 can feed through other components so you will see it on both sides but it is the same phase so no 220.

2. did a continunity check on thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, operating thermostat and hi limit therostat
3. Then I jumper each of the above and the element still does not heat.
4. When I check for voltage across the heating element terminal connections while the unit is running I get zero (O) voltage.
What esle can I check? Is it a bad timer? Is there a way to bypass the time to see if it is the bad component?
I do not know why you are jumping thermostats when it sounds like you have a meter re: measuring the voltage.
Why not just use ohms.
Unplug the unit, set it to timed dry mid-cycle and measure the timer contacts.

System Wiring Check
Confirm that you have 220 at the terminal strip.
If OK
Unplug the unit
Attach/tape one lead of your meter to L1, leave it there.
Set the timer to timed dry, mid cycle.
Then just work your way back through the heating components.
All should be 0 ohms till you get to the heat coil and then 10 ohms approximately on it's far side.
If you make it all the way back to the far side of the heater and all is OK, then either you have a wire burned off, a bad connection, the heat centrifugal switch on the motor is not being closed or the switches contacts are toast.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.