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RADIOGEEK97  
#1 Posted : Saturday, February 6, 2010 6:49:24 AM(UTC)
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RADIOGEEK97

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hello all
I have a kenmore elite electric dryier mod:110.63952101 Ser: mm3611897 type:ddot-ele-2406028eh54. The problem I am having is when I push the start button the dryier spins up, BUT the instant I let go of the start button the dryier stops. If i open the door and manually push on the door switch and push the start button the dryier will spin up, I cant see the element heeting up. However I still am holding the start button while I am doing this (which i know is not normal). I am comfortable taking the unit appart I just need some guideance. Sears appliance repair was not much help, and money is very tight right now so any savings would be a blessing. thanks
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, February 6, 2010 6:59:25 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here is a wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%203979705.pdf

As you can see the Push To Start switch has a relay in parallel with it.
This relay is supposed to energize and keep the motor running.

I believe it is the same as the heater relay. Pull it and confirm that it is the same and then install the heater relay in the motor relay position.
If the unit now runs the motor OK you need a new relay.
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RADIOGEEK97  
#3 Posted : Saturday, February 6, 2010 7:06:01 AM(UTC)
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RADIOGEEK97

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any thoughts as to what it could be if i swap the relay and it still has the same problem? Is there a board that controls the relay? I am just teying to jump a few steps ahead incase i take the unit appart and the relays are ok. thanks
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, February 6, 2010 7:39:17 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Yes, the electronic control board (even heat)
Part number: AP4319168
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RADIOGEEK97  
#5 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 7:20:39 AM(UTC)
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RADIOGEEK97

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well I had a chance to take the dryier appart and found a few things. First off i put the unit into self test and the switches timer seem to be ok. I checked the thermal fuses (no opens) and the heating element (good continuity no shorts). I did find 48vdc on one of the pink wires on the motor relay. The other pink wire showed no voltage even if i pressed the button. What I did find wrong is the thermistor(whirlpool pn 3976615) is OPEN no continuity. What i then did is jump the thermistor to see if the unit worked, BUT it still only spun with the start button depressed.
Is it possible to have a bad thermistor and even heat board? I suppose yes but i am looking for any flaws in my diagnostic procedures.? thanks in advance for any help!!
denman  
#6 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 8:05:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

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First did you try using the heater relay in the motor relay position.

[COLOR="Blue"]I did find 48vdc on one of the pink wires on the motor relay. The other pink wire showed no voltage even if i pressed the button. [/COLOR]
It depends on where you are measuring to.
This could be normal re: one side gets voltage the other is ground.
If you measure across the relay coil and get 48 volts and the motor does not run then either the relay is toast or there is an open somewhere else in the circuit.

[COLOR="Blue"]What I did find wrong is the thermistor(whirlpool pn 3976615) is OPEN no continuity. What i then did is jump the thermistor to see if the unit worked,[/COLOR]
Are you sure you were using the correct meter scale at 70 degrees F it should be 12,000 ohms approximately so you have to be on the 20 K or higher scale. Also this is a negative temperature coefficient device, in other words resistance decreases as temperature increases so if you jump it, the unit would see a high temperature and probably not heat. Disconnect it and it will think it is cold. Also this should only effect the heater not the motor.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Is it possible to have a bad thermistor and even heat board?[/COLOR]
Yes it is possible but I do not think the thermistor should have any effect on the motor running.
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RADIOGEEK97  
#7 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 8:17:04 AM(UTC)
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RADIOGEEK97

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denman
1) yes i did try and swapping out the relays with NO change. When i checked the relay I was only checking for voltage with respect ti chasis ground. In other words the ground of the meter was on the chasis and the hot of the meter showed only 48vdc on one of the pink wires.
2) on the thermistor what i did to test it was to merely check to see if my ohmeter beeped across the terminals of the thermistor. It did not, also it did not show any reading on the the display. It acted as if the terminals of the meter were not even connected. The meter is auto-ranging if that means anything.
I am leaning towards the even heat board only because i am thinking the chances of both relays being bad are slim.
As far as the termistor goes I am hoping i tested it correctly?
RADIOGEEK97  
#8 Posted : Sunday, February 7, 2010 1:15:11 PM(UTC)
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RADIOGEEK97

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denman
Well i took your advice and re-checked my ohmmeter settings. Well it was me and not the thermistor. I set the meter and the thermistor reas about 9.5 kohms and when heat was applied it dropped to almost zero. Soo I am leaning toward the even heat module. I think??? Any thoughts?
basilg  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, September 7, 2010 9:08:23 PM(UTC)
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basilg

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I'm not technical but I was having the same problem. I could start my dryer but it would stop in a matter of seconds. I think someone mentioned this in an earlier post - but I just unplugged, then plugged in again and it ran through a full dryer cycle.
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