[Gene]

verruckt,

If the thermal fuse (#8 on the break down diagram) is open - it has to be replaced. If the part you mentioned is not the thermal fuse then try to locate it on the break down diagram and post the reference number.

- The part number for the thermal fuse is AP3133489

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LE5800XMW1

Gene.

[verruckt]

Actually what I 'thought' was the fuse, was #5 here
Model LE5800XMW1

At the parts store they told me it wasn't the fuse. So they sold me the one you suggested and went back home. However, I have tested my thermal fuse, and it was good. I also tested what appears to be three thermostats on the same housing as the thermal fuse, they all tested good for continuity. They look exactly like the high limit thermostat on my heat element housing.

[verruckt]

Ok, this is REALLY starting to suck.

I started over from the very beginning and followed everything, from power source to the heating element. This time, the hi limit thermostat tested bad. In the beginning, it tested good. I've replaced it before, so I know what it is and how to test it. One of the leads was loose, and a little burnt looking which i didnt see the first time. If you wiggled the lead, it would test good, if it was moved slightly it would test bad. So, i replaced it. Plugged in the dryer and started it up. It immediately threw the breaker. My breaker is a double, so it threw the whole thing.

[misterfixall]

check to see if any of your wires are are toucing another wire or touching body of dryer .are all your wires at correct connections

[glen65]

Also disconnect the heating element,
Then check the resistance of the element, it should be
somewhere around 8-12 ohms.

Then check to make sure that there is “no continuity”
between ether terminal and case ground
If there is then the element is shorted.