[sixthsphere]

Hello everyone.. new here.

I have an Admiral ADE7005AYW Electric Dryer

The dryer was working fine, went to start another load, pushed start button... nothing...

I did some google searching and found many people's problems with this dryer was the thermal fuse, or thermostat.

I had both parts overnighted

I just replaced the Thermal Fuse and Thermostat about an hour ago

Plugged my dryer back in, pushed the start button and nothing... no relay clicks, no sounds... and most annoying of all... no dry clothes

I also noticed the light inside the door is now out, whereas before it was working...

Did I blow out some other fuse inside my dryer? Anyone know what to check next?

The 220 line is fine, circuit breakers are not popped.

Please help... I thought my Laundromat days were over

[kayakcrzy]

You sound like you have a bad door switch. If you need me you can reach me at my website at ******************************************** Tom

[sixthsphere]

last night I popped out the door switch...

there were three wires on it, red connector, no connector and a blue connector...

I ran a jumper wire between the red connector one and the one with no connector... I pushed START and the light lights up until I release the start button.

So i jumped the red connector and blue connector wires, thinking theoretically, the dryer would think the door was closed.

I press start and nothing...

should my dryer have started?

I took apart the door switch and it does look burned out, so I will replace that... but how many more parts should I replace before giving up?

[kayakcrzy]

From what you are said you checked the door switch wold be the last thing. Tom ********************************************

[glen65]

You may have jumperd the wrong two wires.
You would need to jumper the white wire to the
yellow one. If it dosent start then you need to do
some further electrical testing on the dryer.
You will need to know how to use a multimeter
in order to do that.

[sixthsphere]

I say connector, but what I really meant was that the clip dealie on the end of the wire had a plastic "surround" on it to keep it from shorting against the other wires.

One of the surrounds was red plastic (the wire was yellow, had power when START is pressed)

The one that i said had no connector had no "surround" (grey wire, went to light bulb for inside the dryer)

and the Blue "surround" one was on the white wire (which was what i jumped to the Yellow wire to trick the dryer into thinking the door was "closed")

[Gene]

sixthsphere,

Lets start over, according to the wiring diagram for your dryer.

You must have a simple multitester because we have to check some parts for continuity and for proper voltage. You have to buy one if you do not have it.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter – How to check continuity with Ohmmeter.

The simple analog multitester

1. There is suppose to be 240V at the power outlet. Check for 120V between any hot outlet and the neutral and check for 240V between both hot outlets. If there is anything wrong - call an electrician.

2. Remove the rear access cover form the dryer and check the terminal block (where the power cord is connected to the dryer) for any burned wires and/or loose connections. If there is anything wrong - fix it.

3. Check the door switch for continuity. With the door closed,the WH(white) and the GY(gray) circuit should be open and the WH(white) and the YL/BK(yellow - black) circuit should be closed. If the readings are wrong - replace the door switch.

4. Remove the wires from the "M" and the "S" terminals on the timer and check for continuity across these terminals while it's pushed to start. If the circuit is open - replace the timer.


- The part number for the door switch is AP4319999

- The part number for the timer is AP3856076

- The part number for the multimeter is AP3549875

Gene.

[sixthsphere]

thanks for the advice... i'll look into this

I have already replaced my door switch (today in fact) and when the door is open, no light... something is royally screwed I think.

I'll check that timer tomorrow... but I think I may be out of luck here

I bought the dryer at an auction about a month ago for $65 and have already put another 60 into in parts that I apparently didn't need

makes me sad...

[Gene]

Very possible the problem is with the power source.

Gene.