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Dryer thermal fuse went nuts.

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I will give a quick heres what happened Dryer stopped working so I unplugged and disassembled Check all thermostats for

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Old 01-19-2010, 08:43 PM
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Default Dryer thermal fuse went nuts.
Model Number: NVL333EY0WW   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I will give a quick heres what happened

Dryer stopped working so I unplugged and disassembled

Check all thermostats for Continuity

Thermal Fuse was open

Shorted it and plugged back up
Dryer Worked.. So I took a shop vacuum and cleaned all the lint and buttons and zippers lost over the past year. Since this dryer was bought used I really do not know the history of this dryer.

Replaced fuse and reassembled dryer

Dryer Ran for about 3-5 mins and stopped working again..

Disassembled again and Thermal Fuse open again. Before I replace again what could cause it to repeat the same problem? Should something be replaced in conjunction with the thermal fuse?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2010, 04:05 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric NVL333EY0WW Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

I do not have a wiring diagram of this unit so am doing some guessing in the following.

Before I replace again what could cause it to repeat the same problem? Should something be replaced in conjunction with the thermal fuse?

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so it blows the thermal fuse.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Looking at the part picture it looks like the cycling thermostat is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.

I did see that there is a thermostat kit available Item 1236 in Section 3.
I do not know why they have this kit, hopefully someone else will know the reason for it.
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