A Model Number may help others help you.
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I just replaced the motor and the main house circuit breaker in Dec. [/COLOR]
Were these replaced for the current problem or was it a different problem?
Did the unit run OK after these were replaced
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I thought that it was the door switch but replacing that makes no difference.[/COLOR]
Next on the list of things to check would be the thermal fuse/s.
Usually it is the one on the blower assembly that will cause this but cannot say for sure without a wiring diagram.

Still need a Model Number !!!
Of coarse there is no guarantee that i will be able to find a wiring diagram.

If you cannot get a Model Number I woyuld suggest yo look in the control console for it or sometimes it is glued to the back of the unit. It will definitely help in finding the problem.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS840PQ1 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528190.pdf
Just so I do not have to keep looking it up if this gets complicated.

I am assuming that the fuse you jumped was the one on the blower.

I would recheck the power at the terminal strip to be sure you have
L1 to L2 = 240 volts
And L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral both = 120 volts.
Be careful 240 is lethal !!!

I would check the door switch, the push to start relay contacts, Timer switch 4, timer switch 1 and of coarse the motor for continuity. That pretty well does it for the motor circuit.

With the unit unplugged, you could tape one lead of your meter to Neutral and then work your way back through the circuit till you find the open.

[COLOR="Blue"]Tested timer switch 4, no continuity between the tan and white wires.[/COLOR]
I would say this is your problem. The timer probably need replacing.
I cannot see the back of the timer in the parts breakdown so cannot tell if it is possible to open it up and clean the contacts.

[COLOR="Blue"]Start switch- have continuity between the blue wires but not between the blue and pk/bk when switch is held in start position.[/COLOR]
The blue wires are the contacts and read OK. You may see an open on the blue to Pk/Bk just because your meter scale is too low. Try a higher scale. In any case if just the coil was gone the unit would start and run as long as the button was pressed, it would shut off when the button is released. The coil just keeps the contacts closed after the button is released.
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timer one switch- have between .2 to .3 reading. [/COLOR]
This is probably OK and you are just seeing meter offset. In any case if you replace the timer this issue is also taken care of, if it is a problem.