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Hello. I would greatly appreciate any help. My whirlpool duet front load electric dryer will not dry a normal size

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Old 01-02-2010, 04:59 PM
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Default whirlpool duet dryer
Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hello. I would greatly appreciate any help. My whirlpool duet front load electric dryer will not dry a normal size load of wet clothing during 1 cycle. The vent and vent pipe(approx. 5' run) are brand new and clear of lint or any other obstructions. I have also removed the front panel and cleaned all the lint out of the cabinet. The dryer gets hot and hot air blows out of the vent outside as well. Is there a thermostat or fuse that could be blown? I have a digital meter and am capable of testing for continuity and resistance. Thanks again for any advice.

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Old 01-03-2010, 03:37 AM
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A Model Number may help others help you.

Have you tried drying a load with the unit disconnected from the vent system.
Undo the dryer from the exhaust
Run a load
If the load dries correctly then you have a vent problem.
Clean/check the vent system. Make sure the outside louvers open fully.

If you do not want lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose, put one leg into the other and attach this to the dryer exhaust.
Leave enough room behind the dryer so it can blow out like a windsock.
Run a load.

Both the above will allow you to check the air flow and temp.
Also the above is NOT recommended for a gas dryer due to possible carbon monoxide problems.

Have you cleaned/checked the blower wheel?

Sometimes this can be a washer problem re: it is not spinning enough water out of the clothes.
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:56 PM
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Model #GEW9200LWO

THE AIRFLOW SEEMS FINE, AND IS HOT WHEN EXITING THE DUCT OUTSIDE OF OUR HOUSE. WHAT SHOULD TEMP. AT EXHAUST IN REAR OF MACHINE BE? WHAT IS THE MOST ACCURATE WAY TO MEASURE THE TEMP.?
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalshovel View Post
Model #GEW9200LWO

THE AIRFLOW SEEMS FINE, AND IS HOT WHEN EXITING THE DUCT OUTSIDE OF OUR HOUSE. WHAT SHOULD TEMP. AT EXHAUST IN REAR OF MACHINE BE? WHAT IS THE MOST ACCURATE WAY TO MEASURE THE TEMP.?
*LOUVERS OPEN FULLY
*WHEN I CLEANED THE LINT OUT OF THE CABINET, I REMOVED THE BLOWER MOTER COVER AND CLEANED IT AS WELL. THERE IS NO LINT IN MY MACHINE.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:58 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GEW9200LW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203979300.pdf

And a manual
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/Duetdry.pdf

See Page 5 of the tech sheet for checking the exhaust temperatures.

You probably will not need all the above info but it may come in handy in the future, also I think that is is better to have too much rather than too little.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:45 AM
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Thank You, Denman. I Will Get To Work On It This Weekend.
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:58 AM
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I have checked continuity/resistance of all the seemingly applicable components(moisture sensor, thermistor, thermal fuse, thermal cut-off,heater, and machine control electronics) associated with our problem of not being able to dry a normal load of clothes completely within one cycle's time.
-cabinet and ducts are lint free
-louvers open fully
-exhaust temp. and heater on/off are within the given parameters
Is it the machine control electronics board? What is it's cost? Should I replace the thermistor and moisture sensor first, before pulling the trigger on a new board? This is what the tech sheet seems to imply.
I am using a digital meter. What setting should I put it on to best confirm that I have a >1 MQ reading when testing moisture sensor on board? (I have a feeling that this board is costly!!)
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:54 PM
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Default Same Problem

Hi, Have you found the problem yet or replaced the board. I have the exact same problem and have tried every test. Although on my temp test I only got up to 150 and I never heard the limit switch kick in and turn the heat off.

Thanks
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:16 AM
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Is it the machine control electronics board?

Cannot say for sure but it is a possibility. I just hate guessing at this type of thing!!!

What is it's cost?
See Item 19 in Section 1 of the parts

Should I replace the thermistor and moisture sensor first, before pulling the trigger on a new board?
That is what they recommend.
I can see the thermistor going and causing low temperatures but by the sound of it your temps are good.
Could be a bad/intermittent connection somewhere in the moisture sensor circuit.
Basically it is just two parallel strips of metal, any moisture/dirt etc. between these strips creates a circuit path and a small current flows, the unit interprets this as wet clothes and continues to run. So if you have a bad connection, then the unit does not see any current flow and decides that the clothes are dry so ends the cycle. I am assuming that you ran the first part of the sensor test. Another way to do this would be to remove the plug for the sensor at the board. Put your meter on a high scale (20 Meg-ohms), should be an open. Then bridge the strips with your finger, you should see some resistance. Then wiggle the various connections in the circuit re: at the strip and plug, if you see the meter show an open (infinite ohms) that is where the problem could be.


What setting should I put it on to best confirm that I have a >1 MQ reading when testing moisture sensor on board?

Use the scale that is one higher than 1 meg-ohm. For instance my meter has a 2000 kil-ohm scale which is 2 Meg-ohms so that is the scale I would use.

The only other thing I can think of is if you ever used timed dry does it take about the same amount of time to dry a load. If it is longer then it would indicate an air flow or temperature problem.
I know this is probably something you cannot answer as I could not tell you how long it takes a normal load to dry in my unit. It is just something I never pay attention to.
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:21 AM
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This is a long, long shot but I was looking up something else and noticed this for the newer 9250 unit. Perhaps your unit has this board so it may be worth trying this Page 5 Dryness Level Adjust.
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