[randypr]

Hi

We have a Maytag dryer and stop working about two weeks ago. When I start the timer in any of the cycles I can hear it faintly working, but the dryer don't start, also there is no light when I open the door. I don't have experience repairing dryers but I can do it if somebody can give me some instructions to do it. Thanks in advance for your reply and happy holidays.

[denman]

Here are your parts with wiring diagrams.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG HYE3657AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a site that you may also find useful
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

I am assuming that the noise you hear is the timer motor running.
If yes, this tells you that you do have L1 to Neutral power (120 volts) which is also used for the motor/start.

Odds are that the thermal fuse Item 5 in Section 5 is blown.
Unplug the unit. Check the fuse with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it, blowing the thermal fuse.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.
Bad internal seals (drum etc.) so the unit sucks in cool air and it therefore runs hot.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.♦