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leannabo  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 31, 2009 10:57:18 AM(UTC)
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leannabo

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Joined: 12/31/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

My dryer worked one day ago. We have not had any problems to this point. As of today when I push the start button I get nothing? I checked the circut breaker and it is on. I did switch it on and off. But nothing.

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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 1, 2010 4:56:06 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts with wiring diagram
Replacement parts for PYE3300 models | AppliancePartsPros.com

The only sure way to check for power is a meter.

A likely cause is that the thermal fuse has blown, Item 5 in Section 4.
You will note that it comes with a hi-limit thermostat.
Th hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow. Therefore it is assumed that the hi-limit did not open and also needs replacing. In any case you have to find out what caused the unit to overheat.

If you noticed that the unit was always running hot it could be that the cycling thermostat on the blower assembly is shot (contacts welded together).

Another common cause is a grounded element. The element has sagged or broken and is touching the case. Then it always runs on high and the thermostats cannot control it. Often you can see this by inspecting the heater assembly.

The best way to check is with a meter!!!
Check the power at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK check that all the wires at the unit's terminal block are OK
If OK it is not a bad idea to check the power at the terminal strip just to eliminate a bad line cord as the cause.
If OK

Unplug the unit.
Remove a wire from one side of the thermal fuse and check it, should be 0 ohms.
If blown
Remove both wires going to the heating element and measure it, should be about 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not you have a grounded element.

Also a good idea to clean/check the blower wheel and the vent system.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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