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How to disable loud buzzer of Maytag Dryer model DE412?

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Hi. We have a Maytag, Heavy Duty Auto-Dry Dryer, model #DE412, which has an annoyingly LOUD buzzer. Given we have

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Old 12-24-2009, 10:18 AM
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Default How to disable loud buzzer of Maytag Dryer model DE412?
Model Number: DE412   Brand: Maytag   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hi. We have a Maytag, Heavy Duty Auto-Dry Dryer, model #DE412, which has an annoyingly LOUD buzzer. Given we have to use it alot, including the the night we need to disable the buzzer so others in house are not being awoken by it.

I started to take off back screws from dryer back, according to general appliance repair book, only to realize that alone does not remove the back panel and its likely not suited for this dryer.
Then from a bit of research discovered the buzzer may(?) be located elsewhere on this particular dryer. But I still have yet to find where, and am concerned about which wire(s) to remove to disable dryer buzzer safely while keeping everything else working and safe.

Anyone know how to safely disable just the dryer buzzer for this particular Maytag dryer? Model # DE412.

( EDIT - I unscrewed the screws from back outside metal back of dryer only to realize that I would have had to take many more from sides to remove entire back of dryer which isnt even where buzzer is. So I tried to put the screws back into their places in back of dryer, including the two metal pieces covering open areas but only some screws fit back in for some reason. Given they would not go back in, i left a few screws out of their holes, but the one that says ground I never removed and is still in place.

After removing front top instrument panel and locating the buzzer, I removed both wires connecting to the buzzer and covered them with black electrical tape, per instructions in another forum.
But when we started dryer it makes a quiet sound but does not turn round.
So I opened the top front instrument panel cover again, saw nothing wrong and as i started to replace it it made a pop sound and an arc of electricity arced from panel to top of dryer.
That was unnerving. I dont know why that happened.

So I replaced one wire to the buzzer, leaving the other wire with electrical tape around it disconnected. But I dont know which way the wires connection attachments to buzzer are supposed to face when connected to the buzzer?
Does it matter if the metal wires connectors are with open area facing outward away from each other or inward toward each other on the buzzer?


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Last edited by ocean : 12-24-2009 at 09:18 PM. Reason: placement of buzzer wires
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Old 12-24-2009, 09:33 PM
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Here are some photos I took of the wires that connect to the buzzer, after I disconnected them.
I am not sure which way they are supposed to connect, open end of metal connections facing each other, facing away from each other, or both facing same same direction?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dryer2.jpg (57.6 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg dryer6.jpg (71.9 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg dryer7.jpg (50.3 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg dryer4.jpg (75.8 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg dryer.jpg (84.1 KB, 56 views)
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Old 12-25-2009, 04:31 AM
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If the lugs have a small stud on it, it goes to the back side of the receptacle (closed side) though normally they are tight enough that it makes no difference.

I would take the side you have taped off and and tape it onto the main harness.
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:46 PM
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Sorry, but I do not understand what you mean.
Basically, one of my questions is where does the single grey wire to the buzzer box, attach on the buzzer box posts?

Does the single grey wire from the box to the right of it with many wires coming from / in it, go onto the buzzer box right or left metal attachments? And thus the remaining combined blue and black wires ( the blue wire from item to right of buzzer box in photos above, and the black wire coming from back below inside dryer ) go into the left or right side metal prong on buzzer box?

Also, would the inability to replace 3 or 4 screws from back, outward facing side of metal wall of the dryer cause a short or it to malfunction, not rotate? For some reason after taking some of these screws out ( mistakenly thinking I needed to take the whole panelling of dryer off to get at buzzer before realizing the buzzer is behind control panel at top ) they would not fit back into their holes. Like panelling shifted position just a fraction of an inch to far to fit back. But the one screw that I never removed which says ground screw next to it is still in place.
I also removed the two grey metal panels that exposed wires, but put them back on except for two screws on top right panel which seems to only attach by one screw now as others dont fit either. But I did not actually touch or alter any wiring in the back / inside of dryer. Only the top behind control panel of dryer where buzzer box is, taking them off.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:27 AM
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So I replaced one wire to the buzzer, leaving the other wire with electrical tape around it disconnected. But I dont know which way the wires connection attachments to buzzer are supposed to face when connected to the buzzer?
Does it matter if the metal wires connectors are with open area facing outward away from each other or inward toward each other on the buzzer?

On your original post I thought you were asking how the receptacles attach to the buzzer lugs. Basically it makes no difference as long as they are tight,
I suggested taping them up onto the main harness so that when the control panel is re-assembled they sit horizontally. Then it is less likely that the tape over time will come loose, drop off and cause a short.


Basically, one of my questions is where does the single grey wire to the buzzer box, attach on the buzzer box posts?

It should not make any difference.

Leaving out some screws may have caused an internal electrical connection to short to the frame when you reassembled the unit. Look for the telltale sign of a scorch or arc mark. Also check that where the wires from the console enter the main body of the unit that there is not a wire worn through and touching the frame. It could also be that a wire has pulled loose inside the main unit.

Do not put it together or take it apart with the unit plugged in. If hard wired flip the breaker.

But when we started dryer it makes a quiet sound but does not turn round. I would remove the tape from the double buzzer connection and check that it is OK.
If good I would re-tape it and tape up the other connector and then tape those to the main harness.
If you are sure it was an electrical arc that caused the pop then you will have to find where it was and repair the cause.
Without being there I cannot say what is currently wrong but you hear a "quiet sound", it could be that the motor is actually running but the belt has broken.
Usually when a motor cannot start for some reason it will buzz.

Here is a good site with dryer repair help
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

PS: I am off to the lake for a week and will be unavailable. If you need more help and do not get a timely answer, you may want to start a new thread referring back to this one. When it is busy or some regular posters are off, we do not have the time to check posts that someone else has been responding to.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:40 AM
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Thank you very much for your thorough response.
I tried the dryer again today, only to discover that now nothing at all happens after plugging power cord back in dryer, with both wires reattached, as well as when unattached, to buzzer box, when i push the start button. Not even a tiny sound of any type.

Seems something else has happened that totally preventing the dryer from doing anything at all. Any ideas why or how to repair in this situation?
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