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Disabled female vet needs dryer help

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2 days ago I purchased a used KitchenAid dryer (not sure how old this model is). Apparently, I may have

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Old 12-18-2009, 12:17 PM
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Exclamation Disabled female vet needs dryer help
Model Number: KEYW977BWHO   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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2 days ago I purchased a used KitchenAid dryer (not sure how old this model is). Apparently, I may have been cheated. ~

Heated dryer cycles start but don't complete, shutting off after only a handful of minutes running. I can feel the air from the vent in these heated cycles begin to heat up, but the cycle then shuts off. The only cycles that appear will run their full timed cycle are the ones that use little to no heat.

The dryer was real clean, but I've thoroughly gone over it with a vacuum from all points inside the drum, and outside the housing that I can see. I haven't opened up the back at all, so don't know if there's lint issues inside. Why would some cycles run and others shut off?

I have no manual. The $80 I paid was all I had -- none to offer a repairman. I've no one else to call upon to help, so I'm here looking for some. I'm a fairly mechanically minded woman, so I can fix most things if I can understand what's needed to do. I greatly appreciate easy to understand, step-by-step instructions.

Thank you so much!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2009, 05:33 PM
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Well, darn, sorry that happened.

There are a lot of reasons why this could be happening, but let's start with the easiest, cheapest and most likely first. I am assuming that when it shuts down it completely shuts down, and not just the heat off with the motor continuing to run.

A likely scenario is that lint and debris has built up around the motor, and that combined with the high heat settings cause the thermal protection device on the motor to shut the motor off so that it is not damaged. Then when things cool down it will run again. What you will need to do is the following.

1. Take out the two screws under the lint filter cover. These hold the top to the cabinet.

2. Use a screw driver or putty knife to release the top from the cabinet by inserting it into the gap between the top and front at the edge and prying up. The top will now flip up and flip back on hinges. Find a way to support the top so it does not flip all the way back.

3. Take off the front of the dryer by taking out the two screws that hold it on. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and mark how they go. Don't forget to reconnect them when you put things back. (If nothing happens when you try to start it up again, you may not have put them back on, been there)

4. You can now reach in on the right side under the drum and release the belt by pushing on the idler pulley to reduce its tension.

5. You can now lift the drum out. Clean out all of the debris inside.

6. You are also going to want to take off the back, and take out the four screws holding the lint chute on the machine. Then you can take off the lint chute, clean it out and clean out the blower area. Also check the vent to the outside to make certain it is not obstructed. Finally check to make certain all of the electrical connections are tight at the connection block. Check the connections at the heater element and at the thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat on the heater housing.

This is not difficult, and not as hard as it sounds. Just take your time and get it clean. Then put it back together, leaving the back off and try it out with the vent disconnected.

If this does not repair it I advise replacing the thermistor which is on the back on the blower housing. Because of the nature of your problem I do not know of a good way to test it. Here is the part

Part number: AP3919451

Part number: AP3919451


Your machine has a microprocessor control rather than a mechanical one, and if that is the problem then it will not be economical to repair it so lets hope the above will fix your problem. In the future I would strongly advise buying any used (or even new if you can help it) appliance with microprocessor controls.

Let us know how things turn out, have a Happy Holiday Season and thanks for serving. We are all very appreciative.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:11 AM
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Sidfink43,
Thank you so much for your prompt reply, it's greatly appreciated!

Your info sounds great, and reads easily. I'll get started on following your instructions today. Here's hoping that an abundance of lint is the only problem. I'll keep you posted as to the conclusion. I'll also keep in mind to stay away from digital appliances in future.

I love my country, it was my honor to serve!
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:52 PM
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Thumbs down Cleaned it....

Spent the last 3.5 hours following your excellent directions, cleaned it all thoroughly and managed to get it put back together. Although I will say that door, drum, belt thing is best as a 2-man job, isn't it?

Alas, lint appears not to be the problem upon testing it on the Reg/High Heat cycle. Once again, as it began to heat up in the first 5-8 minutes or so, the dryer shut off.

Perhaps I'll have renewed energy tomorrow to tackle locating and replacing that Thermistor part you mentioned, but today I've worn my little self out and need to walk away.

Thank you again for your help, sir.
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Old 12-19-2009, 03:32 PM
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Well, sorry that did not work, worth a try and glad you were able to handle that by yourself. It is a two person job but usually we all have to do it by ourselves, and I am an old guy.

Hate to have you just throw money in parts, but if the control unit is ok there is a good chance the thermistor will fix it.

Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:01 AM
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Question Thermistor

Sir,
Yes, I'm sorry it didn't work out either I was so hopefully optimistic that lint was the culprit.

When you say this part is located on the blower housing... does that mean I can get to it by taking the back panel off again? I won't have to take apart the front of the dryer (door, drum, belt, etc...) I hope, I hope, I hope?

I've got bad weather here today and tomorrow, but Wednesday's looking good for trying this next and final step.

Thank you!
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:38 AM
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Yes, you can get to it from the back, just take off the back panel if you put it back on to test it. In fact the hard physical work is done, the only question now is whether or not we can find out that it is an inexpensive part that will fix it. I suggested the cleaning out first because there was a chance that excess lint in the machine was causing the motor to overheat and shut down temporarily (it has a thermal protection device to do this so the motor does not burn out) and it was a cost free fix, if it had worked.

If you click on your model number you will see exploded views of your machine. The thermistor should be readily visible on the blower housing in back.


Good luck, hope this one works out.
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:42 PM
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Oh! Thank you! I hadn't realized the model number was a hyperlink to a diagram. So, if I'm reading the diagram correctly, the Thermisor is behind the blower wheel, inside the blower housing?
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:10 PM
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Well, have not seen that model in a while but it should be on the outside. If you do not see it then it is on the inside, but I think you will find it sitting right there on the outside.
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